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Latest Questions Answered

I'm not too knowledgeable on gaming input lag, but if I play a PS4 Pro (or Xbox One S) outside of Game Mode in order to take advantage of Local Contrast, is the 31 ms in HDR at all noticeable?
It can be noticeable, yes. The TCL'S input lag of 47ms without game mode disabled is still reasonable though, and it should still make for a compelling experience for more casual gamers.
In your review of the Sony X700D, it says that the TV is capable of BFI at 60Hz. But in the screenshot, there is very noticeable image doubling, which is usually caused by the frame rate not matching the flicker rate. Can you confirm that it is indeed 60hz? If so, do you know what could be the cause of that doubling?
Thank you for your very interesting question! This visible doubling is likely caused by a frame transition timing issue: the LCD layer pixel transition is occurring while the LED backlight is On instead of when it is Off. This is an issue, as one of the goals of BFI is to hide the LCD transition by turning the backlight off momentarily and changing the displayed frame during the dark phase, which helps clear up motion blur. We do not know whether this is only an issue with our X700D test unit, or if it affects every X700D. We did attempt to take multiple pictures at different times to see if this issue was intermittent, but every picture showed the same duplications.
Hello, This website is great! My question is, what are the differences in the 2016 and 2017 model? I saw on Walmart's website that they are selling the 2016 model for the same price amazon is selling the 2017 model. Also, I went into Target to and saw this TV for the same price as amazon, but the Target employees couldn't tell me if it was a 2017 or 2016 model on display. Is there a difference, or are all the S405's 2017 models?
Thank you for your comments! The TCL S405 came out in 2017, so there are no 2016 S405s. The closest equivalent 2016 model is the TCL US5800. Both TVs look quite similar physically, so the best way to differentiate them is to look at the sticker on the back of the TV. If you're buying a S405 though, it's already certain to be a 2017 model. Also note that the S401 sold at Walmart is the same TV as the S405, barring some minor cosmetic differences.
Does this TV support HDR 10?
Yes. See the Inputs Specifications section of our review for a full list of supported inputs.
This TV is dimmer than its P Series counterpart. If I am only looking for one for 4k gaming specifically, and I tend to play in a dark room, is it better to save more for a P Series instead of the S Series?
Both TVs are excellent for gaming in general, but the P607 stands out due to its good HDR capabilities. Even in a dark room, the difference in peak brightness and contrast will be noticeable for highlights. Otherwise, both TVs are evenly matched in terms of input lag and handling of motion, which contributes to making them both good gaming TVs. If you intend to play on modern consoles in the near future and care about HDR content, the P607 is the way to go, otherwise save the money and go with the S405.
I'm looking at the P605 for my Mom, who is 86. I thought the built in Roku would be easier for her to manage which is what initially drew me to this TV. My concerns are the (1) the viewing angle - she has a small living room so do you think that will be ok for this TV? And (2) the remote - there are no numbers on it so you cannot choose a channel - will this TV work with another remote? I think that could be an issue for her. Thanks!
Our P607 works well for antenna and cable TV, you navigate channels with the arrow keys. You can even favorite channels to save them to a short list, making navigation even easier. Unfortunately there is no way to key in a channel by number using the included remote, though the TV should work with universal remotes that support TCL Roku TVs.

Viewing angle is usually only relevant if you have two people watching the TV on two different couches or chairs, because they'll be seeing the TV at much different angles. If you're sitting in a couch or chair directly in front of the TV it isn't a problem.

I'm trying to decide between this TV and the LG OLED C7P (55 inch). I've been attracted to the OLED because of the rave reviews they've all gotten. My household does a mix of gaming off of our Xbox One S (and soon Xbox One X), Nintendo Switch, and PS4, as well as watching 4K/HDR content. I want something that covers my bases in regard to HDR (something that supports HDR10 AND Dolby Vision) because I'm in to watching HDR Movies. I've read reviews of both TV's now and just am curious what would be the best option for what I laid out above?
Both are great for your use cases, with the LG C7 easily being the better of the two. But because the C7 is nearly four times the price of the P607, the decision between them is almost entirely a matter of price. Their input lag is similar (15ms P607 vs 20ms C7), but the C7 has far better picture quality than the P607, mostly because of the inherent advantages of OLED panels (perfect blacks, infinite contrast, perfect local dimming, nearly instant response time). OLED does have some intrinsic disadvantages, like image retention and Automatic Brightness Limiter (ABL), but these aren't a problem in most use cases. You can read more in our OLED vs LED vs QLED article.

Dolby Vision support isn't really a deciding factor when choosing a TV, because all current (and most likely future) content made in Dolby Vision is also available in HDR10. You can read more in our HDR10 vs Dolby Vision article.

Thank you for your review of the MU9000. May I ask, based on your experience testing both this model and last year's KS9000, which would you advise as the better over all performer, since prices are currently similar between the two models (75in)?
We've found the KS9000 to be a better performing TV overall. It's picture quality is better in general, mostly thanks to the higher contrast and wider color gamut. It also gets a little brighter, which is a plus.
Do you have the calibration settings for the Roku TCL 32s305 with the Roku app.
There is no way to calibrate the white balance and the color space this TV, as the option is not available on the mobile Roku app.


I have an OLED55E6P that I've been using as a PC monitor. One day I stupidly left it for 8 hours with a browser open and now I have burn in from the taskbar and browser on the bottom and top of the screen. I've done several dozen Clear Panel Noise cycles with minimal effect.

There's also screen tearing that occurs only at the burned in areas that stops if I cover those areas with solid black or even a dark transparent color.

Anyway, LG said they would cover this so I don't have a question for you. But maybe you can warn others that in rare cases, this can happen.

Thank you for letting us know.
I wanted to ask if you noticed the dark contorted (nonuniform?) splotches in the corners or close to the corners of the screen when viewing contents like Family Guy, or when the background is usually an uniform color. I noticed it on the grey uniformity images on the bottom corners. Is that just an uniformity issue?
Areas like these that make it seem like the screen is dirty are indeed caused by lower gray uniformity. For content with large areas of uniform colors, like Family Guy and other cartoons, or the playing surface when watching sports, the effect is more noticeable, but you probably won't notice it often in live-action shows or movies. If it is distracting in live-action movies or TV shows, you probably have a worse than average uniformity and you can try exchanging the TV for another unit.
Just wanted to make sure before I pull the trigger. The P607 and P605 are identical except for a remote with a headphone jack? That's the $50 difference? Performance wise with Color gamut and Peak Brightness are identical? Just don't want to buy and realize that it was not as good picture wise. That tiny remote doesnt seem like a $50 piece.
TCL have confirmed on Twitter that the remote and 'slight cosmetic differences' unrelated to picture quality are the only differences between the P605 and the P607.
In the review, it says that the motion is after compensation. What does this mean? I'm thinking about buying this TV, however motion is very important to me.
The P607 was a bit of a special case because its backlight makes heavy use of PWM (Pulse-Width Modulation) to dim the backlight even at the 100% backlight setting. This caused the P607's transition graphs to display periodic variations, seen here, whereas a more typical TV, such as the TCL S405, has transitions that look like this. To make the P607's transitions easier to see, we divided each data point from the transition measurements by a corresponding data point on the 100% backlight measurement seen on the top graph here. This removed the influence of PWM from our transition measurements and isolated only the response time of the LCD layer during the transition. This calculation made it much easier to determine the duration of each transition, as can be seen on the graph after compensation, seen here.

The motion behavior of the TCL P607 is not visibly different from other TVs, and results from our motion tests can still be compared to TVs without strong PWM at 100% backlight. The compensation was used as a way to help us identify more accurately the duration of each transition we measured.

I was wondering what the input lag was outside of game mode with 4K + HDR, have you had a chance to test this? Thanks.
The input lag outside game mode with a 4k@60Hz + HDR resolution is 31.8 ms.
What's the difference between the TCL P605 priced at $599 and the TCL P607 priced at $650 I see that that have same specs but why is one $50 cheaper
The only difference between the two is the remote. The P607 has a more advanced remote with a 3.5mm headphone jack that can be used for private listening of content. This same feature is available on the Roku smartphone app though, so it's not a big loss.
Hello, I am closed to buy a Samsung QN75Q7FAMF but I see also the reference QN75Q7FAMFXZA, is-it the same product TV. Or is there any specifications diferences? And what do you think about the curved version compare to the flat one? Thanks, best, Alain
Different stores might shorten the product number, but they should be the same TV. We expect the curved variant to perform about the same as the flat variant.
What is the difference between this TV and the TCL C807?
The C807 has a nicer metallic design and is thinner. However, it lacks the Local dimming found on the P607.
I'm currently deciding between the Samsung MU6300 and TCL P605 as a main TV, both for the same price. Given that I mainly use the TV for streaming shows and movies, and PS4 (regular, not PS4 Pro) gaming, it appears that the TCL is a better buy. However, I am hesitant to shy away from the "premium brand" Samsung, having never owned/heard of TCL. Is there any reason to prefer the MU6300, or is the P605 obviously the better choice for longevity, build quality, and viewing experience?
The P605 offers a better viewing experience for most use cases. The Samsung MU6300 has better gray and black uniformity, and has the option to add motion interpolation, which is good for TV shows. The TCL P605 is better in your other use cases, video gaming and movies, in part due to its superior contrast ratio helped in part by local dimming, and better peak brightness. The build quality is comparable between the two models. As for longevity, we do not currently perform endurance tests and can't vouch for or against either model.
Could you provide some information about the tuner performance?
We unfortunately don't have an official tuner test, because we have limited throughput for reviews so we need to prioritize what to test. We just did a quick test of the P607's tuner with a basic antenna and it worked fairly well.
With this article noting that the models picked out are defective, why not purchase a third model directly from Bestbuy or another retailer and not Amazon? I had a debate with a few Bestbuy associates and they believe that in regards to your handling of the TV, that is why your models are detective. Their argument is that Bestbuy handles the TVs and transports them a lot more carefully and the models they have are less inclined to have the same problem. Regardless, the Q7 fails to hit the "1500 nits" as they continuously have claimed and is a fail model. Samsung is desperately trying to milk money from consumers who clearly do not know what they are getting. This creates issues when bold claims are proven wrong through evidence.
After buying two units with the same problem it wasn't really worth it to buy a third unit. The lower brightness is almost unnoticeable in person, only evident if you have two TVs side by side, and it doesn't affect the overall scores by that much. The two brightness scores are decreased by ~0.3 at best, which affects the Overall Usage score by ~0.03, which is inconsequential. After our recent attempt to fix the brightness issue, shown in this video, the TV now reaches 1485 cd/m² in the HDR Dynamic picture mode (vs 1500 cd/m² spec), and 921 cd/m² in HDR Movie (vs 1000 cd/m² spec), so it's now nearly in spec. Unfortunately it still doesn't perform as well overall as last year's KS8000.
Hi, I'm considering purchasing the LG C7P. My only concern is image retention. I do watch sports & CNN where there are static images. But you don't state how long those images need to be up on the screen to create an image retention. How long would the CNN logo or a score of a ballgame need to be up on the screen of an LG OLED C7P, in order to create image retention?
Our image retention test video is shown on the screen for ten minutes, by which point the image retention is almost as bad as it will get if left on for longer periods. So if the sports scoreboard is shown for ten minutes straight there will be very faint image retention, though this should only be noticeable when viewing grey slides and looking very closely, and should be unnoticeable when watching normal content. The retention will clear up after a few minutes of watching normal content. Because of this image retention when watching most sports is a non-issue, it's only a concern for extreme cases such as a bright video game HUD on a dark background being shown for multiple hours, or during PC monitor use.

To test this we just ran our football sports clip (with scoreboard) on a loop for a half hour on the C7 and B6, and afterwards only very faint image retention was visible on the B6, and almost none was visible on the C7.

Hello. I have the ps4 pro and i am debating between the Sony X900E and the TCL P607. I will only be using the tv for HDR gaming (if the game supports HDR) or regular games without HDR. I see that the input lag on the TCL is almost half when is 4k + HDR + 60hz. My question is which tv of these two to consider, not only for HDR use and low input lag but also for a nice picture quality while gaming. Thank you very much.
If you don't mind the cheaper plastic build and your usage is centered around HDR gaming, go for the P607 and save your money. It has an even lower input lag than the Sony, and it's handling of motion is quite similar. The picture quality is a little better on the X900E, but the difference is going to be marginal if you only use it for gaming.
I am deciding between this Samsung mu7000 (49") and the Sony x800e (49"). The Sony tv has USB 3.0, but not the Samsung. Does that make a difference? Sometimes I will connect my computer to my TV to watch movies. Also, the Samsung remote looks simplistic, but would it be hard to use? In contract, Sony's remote isn't sleek looking. What do you thin?
We've found the Samsung remote to be very intuitive and easy to use, but it does have less control over the rest of your home theater system. The USB type won't make a difference unless you connect usb drives directly to the TV, so it shouldn't be an issue for PC use. Depend on your usage, the Sony X800E will be more practical if you have a wide living room and plan on watching your TV from the sides, and the MU7000 will offer better picture quality in a dark room if viewed directly in front.
Any verdict on the TCL C807? Is it pretty much the same TV as the P607 with the only differences being a fancier exterior design?
The major difference we can see between these two models, without testing the C807, is that the C807 is an edge-lit TV without local dimming, while the P607 is direct-lit with 72 local dimming zones. With local dimming enabled, this should give the P607 a better contrast ratio than the C807. Outside of that, we can't give indications on the picture quality of the C807, as we have not tested and reviewed it.
Is it possible to buy the TV with a different TV stand? The table that i have is smaller than the 38 inches needed to fit this TV. I need a center Stand. Is this possible?
The P607 supports a standard VESA 200x200 mount. A third-party central stand such as this one can be used.

Hi. Just out of curiousity, I was wondering if you have had any issues with a notification popping up on your Samsung MU8000 about Samsung checkout being down on June 21 and 22? A bunch of owners, including myself, have been experiencing it with no solution in site.

Thanks in advance.


Thank you for letting us know. We haven't experienced this issue on our MU8000. Have you tried a factory reset of the TV?
Can you help me better understand how viewing angles come into play when using a TV as a computer monitor? For example, if I'm usually 2-3" away, what kind of angles come into play?
Viewing angle is important for a computer monitor because users sit closer, because content such as text doesn't fill the whole screen. When you sit this close, the edges of the screen will look washed out if the viewing angle isn't good. If you view a 43" TV from 3 feet away, you are viewing the edges of the screen from a 28° angle. If you're using a TV with a VA panel whose black level doubles at 15° and colors shift at 20° (pretty common for VA), the edges of the screen will look a little washed out.
Were you able to see if the new TCL Roku P607 TV update (released last week) made any impact on your FALD findings?
We have found no visible changes to the local dimming performance since the firmware update. The algorithm remains very aggressive, often dimming small highlights and turning backlight zones on and off quickly instead of gradually as highlights move across the screen.
Are you going to compare this against the 43S405? I know 4K isn't as important in this size, but it adds HDR for only $50.
With a 43-inch TV, you can still benefit from a 4K resolution if you are sitting closer than approximately 5.5 feet from your TV. You can find the optimal TV size and resolution for your viewing distance using our tools here. If you are currently watching content or playing video games that use HDR, or plan to do so before your next TV upgrade, then the S405 is a good upgrade over the S305 and isn't much more expensive.
Is it true that the vertical banding issue the Q9F suffers from has been fixed with a firmware update? Thank you!
On the latest firmware (1121), the vertical banding which can be seen on a 50% grey background and is most obvious on the image retention picture here is still visible in person. This is hardly visible while watching real content, and the extreme banding cases reported on other forums were never seen on our unit.
I just purchased the M65-E0 and it seems that the calibration settings are great. I have two questions for this set: 1.) What are the best settings for HDR gaming with my Xbox One S? 2.) On some movies, like Iron Man 3, while watching darker scenes such as Iron Man flying into a night sky, there is a halo effect in the darker area (this is during DirecTv programming). How do I reduce this or get rid of it? Should I turn on Noise or Block reduction??
Our settings found here are what we recommend, just make sure to adjust the backlight to your liking as it might be a little too dark for you. The halo-ing might be a result of the M Series' relatively low amount of local dimming zones, which you can turn off with the "Active LED Zones" setting.
Difficulty choosing between the M and the P. With the 2017 M's having closed the gap in tech with the P's and the M70 and P65 being comparable in price, do the remaining major differences (60hz vs. 120hz and large disparity in local dimming zones) make the quality of the P or the additional 5" of the M, the more worthwhile?
Unless you use the soap opera effect or use a PC for a 120hz input, the different native refresh rate will not make a difference. The Picture quality of the two TVs is quite similar, but the P's local dimming will have an advantage in most cases. They aren't that far off each other though, so the larger size will probably enhance the experience more than the slightly better picture quality.
Additional review notes: HDR brightness and EOTF (PQ curve)
With local dimming on, the EOTFs in Movie and Game mode follow the PQ curve fairly well. However the TV gets quite dim when local dimming is disabled, shown in this Game mode EOTF. This is alieviated somewhat by enabling dynamic contrast, shown here. The TV also dims bright colors during very bright scenes, shown by this EOTF measured with the grey slides covering the whole screen. The Standard picture mode's EOTF is brighter than either Movie or Game modes, but has a bit worse picture quality otherwise.

In short, using the Standard picture mode, enabling local dimming or enabling dynamic contrast all will make the TV brighter on average, at the cost of a bit worse picture quality. When using the Standard picture mode you can use our recommended settings (and a W30 color temperature) to achieve better picture quality. For gaming, when the input's icon is set to PC (aka PC mode) all picture modes have the same input lag, so Standard can be used without penalty.

Does this set have alternative aspect ratios (4:3 to be exact)?
When connected to a 4:3 source, this TV will automatically resize to a 4:3 aspect ratio and add black bars on both sides of the image. It is possible to remove the black bars by stretching content from a 4:3 source to fit the screen by using the MU7000's Zoom feature, but it is not possible to display a 16:9 source as 4:3.
My Samsung representative at my store told me a few things about this TV. First is he told me this TV has 100% color volume, which doesn't seem to be the case unless I'm misreading something. Second is that this TV hits 2000cd/m2, which also seems to be an inconsistency. Every time now when this site comes up in conversation, he dismisses it as biased and wrong. Is Samsung having strained relations with you guys, and how valid are his statements?
Samsung calculates their color volume versus a 1000 cd/m² DCI P3 volume, but still measures their color volume at maximum brightness, so the areas that are brighter than 1000 cd/m² help to offset the lost volume at lower brightness levels. We normalize our color volume by maximum brightness (because we score maximum brightness elsewhere), and give no benefit when a TV's volume is outside the target volume (because that would mean they're oversaturating their colors, which is bad). The Q9F still got a good score, it's the best color volume we've ever measured. As for the brightness, the TV did exceed 2000 cd/m² in the 'Dynamic' picture mode for HDR, but our scoring is done in the 'Movie' mode because it has more accurate picture quality than 'Dynamic'.

The main disparity between Samsung's marketing test results and our own is that their tests are done in a way that ensures the TV gets the highest number possible, while our tests are done with the TV in a configuration that people will actually watch. We also strive to keep our testing unbiased by testing all TVs in the exact same way, in a configuration that leads to the best picture quality, so TVs from all brands (and all types) are on equal footing.

So how many local dimming zones does it have exactly? The review says it is better than the 2017 Vizio M-Series (32), but is it on par with the M-Series 2016 (64) - or maybe better or worse that than?
It's advertised on the box to have 72 local dimming zones, and the zones did seem very small during testing. However the local dimming algorithm was worse than that of the Sony X900E with far fewer zones: on the TCL when the moving dot in our test pattern transitioned from zone to zone it would flash because the transition was too aggressive, and the blooming in other patterns was worse than the Sony. Though the local dimming of the TCL has a lot of potential if TCL improves their local dimming algorithm.
My apartment doesn't get much outside lighting. Should I basically ignore the low TV score? What about the lower movie score? I'm looking at this vs. the Sony 900E. Also, do you know if the video gaming HDMI input or gaming setting means no upscaling of games?
The TV score does take reflections into account, but even in a dark room, the P607 has much worse gray uniformity which affects its performance for TV shows. Its lack of Judder-free 24p via 60p and 60i inputs also reduces its movie score slightly. Game mode does not affect upscaling significantly. The Sony X900E is a better TV overall, but the TCL P607 is on an equal footing for HDR Gaming and HDR content in general, while being much less expensive than the X900E. If you watch a lot of TV shows and movies, the X900E may be worth the extra money, but if you mostly play video games on your TV, go for the P607.
I'm sorry, I wasn't clear on the color space question. What was the color space of HDMI connection at the source device? RGB or YCbCr? 4:4:4 or 4:2:0 or 4:2:2? Rec.709 or Rec.2020?
We send a 16-235, 8 bit RGB signal and calibrate to the Rec. 709 standard. On Nvidia Control Panel, these settings are 'Output color format' set to RGB, 'Output color depth' to 8 bits per color, and Limited 'Output dynamic range' for the 16-235 color range. Different graphics card control panels may have different names for these options.
Any differences between this model and the MU7500? Amazon sells them both.
There is no apparent difference between the two. It is simply an Amazon exclusive variant meant to restrict price-matching.
Is there any way to get around using Smartcast on my phone? I have a good internet connection, but I can barely find the Vizio under "my devices" and constantly says "no connection available." Really considering returning the TV due to how rarely I'll be connected to Smartcast.
Instead of using the Smartcast app, you can use the TV like a standard Chromecast and cast to it directly from the app you consume content from on your phone (Youtube, Netflix). Vizio is planning a future system update that should bring an onscreen version of Smartcast that will make it easier to access content without having to use an external device.
First, I'm digging all the reviews and it is giving me a better insight for my next TV which my question. Coming from a plasma everything will be better but I'm specifically looking at the Vizio M65-E0 and Sony 65X850E. Both of which score decent with the Sony being the better overall one. However, while Vizio has full array LED but only 60Hz and includes Dolby Vision (most likely the next standard?), the Sony is side LED (brighter) without Dolby Vision. I'm undecided and ask for your recommendation. Go for Dolby Vision or the better overall picture (and refresh rate). Thank you and keep up the good work!
Thank you for the kind words! Both the Vizio M Series and the Sony X850E offer similar overall performance, but the X850E is better at handling motion while the M Series has better picture quality. If you watch a lot of sports and play video games on the TV, the X850E is a better choice, while the Vizio M Series is better for watching movies. If price is a consideration, the M Series is usually also the less expensive TV. The refresh rate is only important if you like motion interpolation (soap opera effect), which only the Sony X850E is able to display. Also note that content that utilizes Dolby Vision is currently limited. HDR10 is part of the 4k Ultra HD Blu-ray standard, so it is used for much more content.
What was the color space selected during the calibration process?
We selected the 'Custom' color space and changed the values for each color, as per the image at the bottom of the page. These values are only provided for reference because the optimal calibration values vary between units of the same model. If you want to try them and you end up with worse picture quality, simply reset them to the default values.
I noticed your overall rating scores for the LG UJ6300 are lower than the scores you posted for the LG UH6150. From my research the UJ6300 is the newer replacement model of the UH6150 and the UJ6300 is supposed to have a few improvements over the UH6150 such as Active HDR vs the UH6150's HDR Pro. Why the lower overall ratings for the UJ6300? I ask because I had the UH6150 for about a month and was happy with it, however due to a bad PCB I had to exchange it for the newer UJ6300 and for some reason the picture just doesn't seem as good as the UH6150. Strange because on paper it should have a slightly better picture or at least the same as the UH6150.
Overall picture quality is similar between the two models, with the UJ6300 having noticeably better Contrast, while being worse in other areas such as Viewing Angle and Image Retention. HDR is indeed better on the UJ6300, but not by much. The score difference can mainly be attributed to the UJ6300's worse performance for motion blur, which the UH6150 handles extremely well.
I have a deal for a KS8500 for $1,200. I know the TCL605 is $599, and I only care about 4k resolution and HDR Gaming with a wide color gamut. Is it worth paying an extra $600 for the KS8500 or get the TCL605 instead? Just looking for low lag HDR Gaming.
Both TVs offer similar HDR Gaming performance, with the TCL605 having slightly lower input lag and better handling of motion, while the KS8500 has a slightly wider color gamut and higher peak brightness. The KS8500 is the better TV overall, but if you only care about HDR Gaming, go for the cheaper one.
I was wondering, I can't find this model in Europe, only the TCL P6046, do you guys know if it's the same tv but just with different naming depending on region?
Unfortunately, it appears that the P6046 and other TCL models sold in Europe vary significantly from the ones available in the USA. This model specifically features a different Smart platform as well as a backlight that isn't as bright and lacks a local dimming feature.
Which TV is better, the Vizio P Series or TCL P607? When they are going to give the review to Vizio P 2017 to know if there were improvements?
Overall, the Vizio P Series is the better TV. The TCL P607 is superior for HDR gaming due to its extremely low input lag and solid HDR performance, but the Vizio P Series is much better at handling motion and has slightly better picture quality. The P607 is much cheaper, so if you mainly plan on gaming on your TV, the Vizio P might not be worth the extra money.

We plan on releasing a review of the Vizio P Series 2017 in the next few weeks. Vizio have said the 2016 and 2017 models are physically the exact same TV, but the 2017 model has some software improvements, so we don't expect a large difference between the two models.

I mainly use my TV for a mix of PS4 Pro gaming (some games 4k and hdr in future so hdr gaming matters, TV and streaming. I just bought the 2017 55" Vizio M series 2 weeks ago. I am very pleased with the picture quality. However, this review came out after and the extremely low input lag is very tempting. The Vizio M measures by you 38ms in 4k hdr settings and 43 in 1080 sdr while the TCL measures ~16ms. I've never played on a TV with such low lag so i'm unsure how it would impact my gameplay and wanted to exchange my current TV However, the very poor flicker rating has me worried. 120hz compared to the vizio m 480 is worrisome as I fear it may longterm give me eyestrain/headaches. I don't use the Vizio at 100% brightness currently (usually at like 70 brightness with your site's color/white settings). Is the difference in PWM flicker that worrisome if I am already watching the Vizio M at 70 brightness? The PWM Flicker is literally the only thing (maybe the quality control people reported but not that bad) that is keeping me from returning the M series and getting the TCL P
The Vizio M at 70% brightness will produce a 480Hz flicker, but that is not noticeable to the human eye. The TCL P607's 120Hz backlight flicker is also not noticeable for the vast majority of people, and is usually most noticeable as duplications following fast-moving objects. At 120Hz, some people with higher than normal light sensitivity may also experience headaches after watching TV for a long time, but that is uncommon. Fluorescent light tubes also flicker at 120Hz when functioning properly, so unless you are prone to headaches when working in a room lit by fluorescent lights, you shouldn't worry about the TCL P607's flicker frequency. Also, note that the poor flicker rating of the P607's is mostly due to its lack of BFI options, which are available on the Vizio M Series.
I'm curious to know how important HDR peak brightness in your 2% window is to overall HDR impact? I'm asking because you mention that the TCL P607 does a good enough job with HDR to make the difference really noticeable from SDR. However, in your peak brightness section under the test tab you say that you consider 1000cd/m2 to be good for highlights -- so I'm worried that HDR won't be impactful because this TV only registered 327cd/m2 in a 2% window. I'm wondering if swapping my KU6300 that I got at a bargain for this TV which will cost $200 more is worth it just for HDR? I do believe that I will end up consuming more HDR capable content than most since I play a lot of games and watch newer movies/shows but are the P607's HDR capabilities alone good enough to make a noticeable difference from my KU6300?
The P607 is much better at handling HDR content than the KU6300. The P607 is overall a much brighter TV, and also has a wider color gamut and a better color gradient, all aspects that have an impact on the display quality of HDR content. The 2% peak brightness is unfortunately low due to full screen dimming when displaying very dark scenes, but the KU6300 is not any better in that regard, and dims proportionally even more than the P607 for the 2% window. Scenes this dark are rare in real content, and the TCL P607's real scene peak brightness is very good. Overall, the P607 is noticeably better than the Samsung KU6300 for HDR content.
Does the low image flicker affect HDR Gaming at all?
The low image flicker score for this TV is important only if you were planning on using BFI to clear up motion, and BFI is not supported by this TV. On TVs which do support it, BFI also produces a visible flicker which causes visual fatigue for some people, so it is not suitable for everyone. If you did not want to use BFI, do not worry about the low image flicker score.
You mention the Q9's "narrow viewing angles cause it to be less suitable for use from up close". So IPS is better for PC monitor use even though its much lower contrast levels compared to the off angle viewing even though most people are head on viewing when using a computer monitor?
Typically when a TV is used as a PC monitor people sit closer to the TV than someone who only watches movies and shows; with a PC monitor you want a wider field of view because what you're looking at often doesn't cover the entire screen. When you have a wide field of view with a TV that has a bad viewing angle, the edges of the screen will start to wash out. Also a PC monitor is often used in a bright room, where contrast ratio is less important. For these two reasons IPS TVs make great PC monitors even though they're not great for movie watching in a dark room.
Are you going to do a video for the Samsung Q9? I would really like to hear and see what is good and bad about the TV! Thank you.
We have plans to post a video review of the Samsung Q9F in the next few months. You can subscribe to our YouTube channel or sign up to our emails to be notified as soon as the video is online.
Hello and thanks for all these great detailed reviews, in your opinion would you say the upscaling of lower resolutions is better than the 2016 Vizio P series?
We find that the TCL P607 does a slightly better job than the Vizio P Series 2016 on a side by side comparison. The TCL smooth out straight lines a bit better and it seems to have a bit less noise overall than on the Vizio. We did this comparison with all the image processing off to show how the TVs natively display a DVD movie at 480p resolution. But in the end, the upscaling comes down to a personal choice as some people like a sharper image over a smoother one and vice versa. If it can help, we did take some picture and we posted them down below.
TCL P607 TCL P607 Upscaling
Vizio P Series 2016 Vizio P Series 2016 Upscaling
Except for the lack of Dolby Vision and local dimming, is the TCL 55S405 essentially the same television?
No, the S405 is also significantly dimmer, and it lacks a wide color gamut.
According to your ratings, this TV is 0.2 points superior than the Vizio P Series for HDR gaming, and the Vizio is only 0.1 points better for HDR movies. If I plan on using this TV for HDR content primarily, is it worth spending all the extra money to get the P series if this TV is basically just as good (according to your review)?
For HDR gaming we handily recommend the TCL because of its lower HDR input lag yet still great HDR picture quality. For HDR movies exclusively the Vizio P is better because of its better local dimming algorithm, better uniformity and support for motion interpolation. For SDR the Vizio P is significantly better because these things become even more important. However the Vizio P and TCL P607 are in different leagues in terms of price, so whether the Vizio P is worth the added cost is up to your usage mix and personal preference. Also the 65" P607 hasn't been released yet, so if you can't wait the 65" Vizio P is the only option.
Does changing the HDMI input label to something such as "Game Console" or "Computer" have any effect on picture or input lag? Does forcing an input to HDMI 2.0 or HDMI 1.4 affect input lag?
Neither of those things affect the input lag, we just tested using our input lag tool. Usually changing the input label only affects settings when it engages PC mode, such as on Samsung and LG TVs; however this TV doesn't have PC mode (it supports 4:4:4 color in all modes).

Update 7/18/2017: It was discovered that 4:4:4 color is only properly displayed in PC mode. The TV forces PC mode when it detects a PC input. For most sources PC mode is activated by changing the input's icon to 'Computer'. See the updated Inputs section of the review for more details.

I'm deciding between the Vizio M65-E0 and this model for HDR gaming. Will this TCL 8-bit FRC display noticeably affect picture performance?
For HDR gaming the TCL is clearly better, due to its lower HDR input lag yet still great HDR picture quality. The size difference though is a larger issue as the 65" P607 hasn't been released yet. If you can't wait for the 65" P607 to be released, and you'll be viewing the TV from more than 8.5 feet away, the Vizio M65-E0 becomes the better option. Also note that the TCL scored better in our gradient test than the 2017 M; many TVs have 8-bit panels with FRC rather than native 10-bit panels, but the difference isn't noticeable.
This TV has high marks for HDR movies and gaming. How does it stack up against the Vizio P series in terms of picture quality? Is it worth spending more for the P series?
The Vizio P Series 2016 is better in most ways, but it's also in a different league in terms of pricing. Whether it's worth the added cost is up to personal preference. The Vizio P's great local dimming, better uniformity and support for motion interpolation give it better picture quality than the TCL, but the difference while noticeable isn't major, both are good TVs. However one area the TCL handily beats the Vizio is for HDR gaming, because it has lower HDR input lag yet still has great HDR picture quality.
If I'm going to be using the HDMI ARC port for all of my connections, hooked up through a higher-end AV receiver, it is worth purchasing the 65" P Series 2016 over the 65" M Series 2017? In other words, how dramatic are the differences in picture quality -- is it worth the extra ~$400 for the features? One of my primary interests in purchasing the P series was the extra HDMI 2.0 ports, but if I'm going to be using ARC for all of my connections, I'm conflicted as to whether the extra $400 is really worth it.
The P Series 2016 is better than the M Series 2017 in nearly every way, especially for local dimming and SDR brightness. However in casual usage the difference while noticeable isn't major, both are good TVs. Whether it's worth the higher cost, or saving the money for a sooner upgrade, is up to you.
Hi, great site! I have a question regarding HDR. My apologies if this was covered in a previous review but I haven't found it. With OLED, HDR makes sense, you can per-pixel increase the brightness of highlights; however, for LCDs this confuses me. If, in the case of an edge lit LCD like the Q9, you can only brighten/dim the entire backlight (or large chunks of it at best with local dimming), how can you increase the brightness of highlights without increasing the whole scene brightness? It seems like that when brightening highlights, you would necessarily brighten "lowlights" and the rest of the picture, negating the benefit of HDR. Or are LCDs better at dealing with this than I am thinking? e.g. can you actually still have a decent black level in your real scene or 10% windows in the HDR test and are you actually achieving a better contrast ratio? I'm wondering if a metric like "HDR contrast ratio" at each window would be useful information? OLED, despite lower peak brightness, just seems like it would produce a much better HDR experience. Thanks!
Local dimming for edge-lit TVs can turn off the backlight behind the top and bottom black bands when watching movies, which makes the top and bottom of the screen darker, but it can't brighten highlights in real scenes unless the parts to highlight are placed horizontally. Full-array local dimming is much more efficient at highlighting specific parts of an image and, as you mentioned, OLEDs do not need local dimming capabilities since they can brighten and darken images pixel-by-pixel. Contrast ratio is also noticeably improved by well-implemented full-array local dimming. However, displaying HDR content does not increase contrast further; HDR mode increases backlight intensity, which makes both white and black areas of a picture brighter, therefore keeping the contrast ratio similar.
Does this TV or any other in the 65" range allow for lossless audio over arc?
The P607 allows for lossless PCM audio in stereo over ARC or digital optical cable. However, to pass through 5.1 audio over ARC or digital optical cable, you will need to use a compressed format such as DTS or Dolby Digital, and this TV supports both formats.
The EU version, at least in the Netherlands, does not have composite in.
Thank you for letting us know. We only review US models but do expect the international variants of the C7 to have the same performance and picture quality, but with different inputs.
Additional Review Notes
Update 06/26/2017: Our 55SJ8500 has developed a crack in the panel (behind the glass) and appears to have a short circuit behind the frame of the TV. We don't know if this was caused by ourselves (such as a knock from moving the TV) or if it is due to a manufacturing defect. We will update this as we obtain more information. Please let us know if anyone else experiences this issue.
Additional Review Notes #2
Update 06/26/2017: Our 55X900E has developed an issue where regularly spaced red sub-pixels flicker on completely black scenes (approximately 8 sub-pixels are visible). The issue reduces in intensity after running a flashing pattern over the problem areas (such as this), but remains faintly visible. The TV otherwise functions normally, so we will continue to use this unit for testing new firmware versions. Please let us know if anyone else experiences this issue.
Being that the M Series 2017 has a 60 Hz panel, is the M Series 2016 better for sports? They got the same rating, but I would think the 120 Hz on the 2016 model would be beneficial.
120 Hz is only beneficial when motion interpolation is enabled, as neither the 2016 or 2017 M support 120 Hz input. The 2017 model doesn't have motion interpolation at all. When motion interpolation is enabled the 2016 will have smoother motion for sports than the 2017, but if you don't like the soap opera effect on the rest of your content you will have to turn it off again every time, which may be annoying. Motion interpolation also adds artifacts, which are annoying for some.
I intend on using multiple 4K HDR devices with this television. For instance, I intend on using my PS4 Pro to benefit from its HDR abilities, and additionally with something like a Roku Ultra to get access to 4k HDR content from streaming services. Is that possible with this display? I see that there is only one HDMI 2.0 port. The others are HDMI 1.4, which I understand don't support 4k HDR at 60hz. Should I be looking for a TV which features multiple HDMI 2.0 ports? Thanks!
The other ports aren't HDMI 1.4 because they support HDR, but they aren't full bandwidth HDMI 2.0 ports either because they only have the bandwidth of an HDMI 1.4 port. Some devices can play HDR on these ports, such as a Blu-ray player than can output 24 Hz, but our Xbox One S and Chromecast Ultra can't play HDR on these ports because they need full bandwidth (the Chromecast Ultra is locked to 60 Hz). The Roku Ultra may not support 24 Hz either. 4k @ 60 Hz @ 4:2:0 @ 8 bit + HDR will play on these ports, but most players will not play HDR if they cannot play at 10 bit.

To be on the safe side it's probably best to buy a different TV, unless you plan on using an HDR capable HDMI splitter. Three ports are full bandwith on the TCL p series, four ports on the Vizio P Series 2016, two on the Sony X850E, and three on the Samsung MU6300: those TVs are the best alternatives to the M Series 2017, in that order, budget and size permitting.

Can the M series display HDR content from a 4k HDR video file via Kodi?
While you cannot install apps such as KODI on the Vizio M itself, it does support the casting of files through kodi using the "Yatse" remote app. Unfortunately though, the Vizio M doesn't appear to support casting HDR files or files encoded using the H.265 codec, so it will not be compatible with most HDR content.
What are the best TVs for motion? I love video games and use my TV for that most of the time. I'm wondering what the best TVs are for motion in game mode. I would think OLED since their response time doesn't change but I'm not sure. Are there brands that are better at motion overall, and are there TVs will all produce good motion or does it vary from TV to TV? I saw the Q7's motion is good, surprisingly since Sony are the ones that usually excel in that area. Is the Q7F's motion any different in game mode?
The very best TV for motion with video games would be the Sony A1E OLED TV. As you mentioned, OLEDs have next to no response time, meaning there are no visible trails following fast moving objects. In addition to this, the A1E has a black frame insertion feature that further enhances motion clarity. If you do not mind the flicker, this is the best choice. If you don't plan to use the flickering feature, you should go with the LG C7 OLED TV, which will otherwise perform the same but lacks the feature and will usually be found at a lower price.

OLEDs, because of their virtually perfect response times can look stuttery at lower frame rates (below 30 FPS). If this is an issue for you, it might be worth getting an LED TV with good motion such as the Sony X930E and the Samsung Q7F. The motion shouldn't vary between picture modes, except if the motion interpolation feature (soap opera effect) is turned on. Generally, Sony as a brand is usually a good bet for motion, but we've found some of their larger TVs to have slower response times.

Since you won't be reviewing the SJ8570 (marked as rejected), do you have any reason to believe that particular aspects would be significantly different from the model you reviewed and, if so, which ones? (I'm particularly interested if the input lag would remain as excellent) Thanks!
The input lag is pretty consistent across LG's range of LCD TVs, so we expect it to be about the same for the large SJ8570. In general, since it is going to use a similar IPS panel as the SJ8500, the performance should be very close. Large TVs have a higher chance to get panel uniformity issues because of manufacturing difficulties, which might be problematic since LG's smaller TVs don't do too great on that aspect either.
I have a C7 hooked up to my PC, when I put it in high dynamic range mode, PC icon, and game mode, it makes the screen really dark. No way to turn it up in TV settings or video card settings. Have 3.51.20 Software.
The C7P's HDR game and PC modes are indeed a bit dim. Unfortunately, there isn't a good way to solve this since LG locks the gamma setting while in HDR. It's unclear whether this is a bug or intentional, but if you want to keep the low input lag of the game mode, enabling dynamic contrast can help enhance the overall brightness.
I'm a bit confused. You point out the dimming scheme doesn't improve native contrast ratio much but also point out there is no way to turn it off so how did you determine the native contrast ratio?
The "native" contrast in this case is with the lowest setting, while the ratio with local dimming is using the high setting. Because of the type of local dimming used by Samsung's QLED TVs (edge lighting), it does not actually engage within our test and the marginal difference between the two values is due to the inevitable variance you will have between two measurements.
Would you recommend the M70-E3 or P65-C1? Or even M70-D3? All 3 are exactly the same price where I'm looking. Mostly used at night. TV/Movies and gaming all probably equal usage (4k gaming on Xbox One X eventually and PS4 Pro). Wall mounted over the fireplace. Sit about 11 feet back.
Go with the P Series 2016 (P65-C1). At the same price, you will be getting a bit more for your money with the P Series. The local dimming feature is much better than on the M Series 2017 (M70-E3) and you will have the wide color gamut (which is important for HDR) that is not available on the M Series 2016 (M70-D3).
Hey guys, love your reviews. I'm getting into HDR gaming and I have a quick question. Between the M Series 2016 and M Series 2017, which do you recommend? I see that the 2016 model has more dimming zones and a higher native refresh rate. Now, between the 2017 and 2016 M series, how would the better of the two stack up against the P Series 2016? I saw one response to a question where you stated that the P series isn't good for HDR gaming - but in your actual review of the item, you gave it high marks. Thanks!
For HDR gaming the 2017 M is definitely better, but the 2016 M has a low latency port for SDR gaming, giving it 20 ms less input lag than the 2017 M in SDR. Both models have ~40 ms of input lag for HDR, which is fine for casual gaming but may be too high for competitive gaming. So it's a tradeoff between low input lag and HDR. What will tip the scales is how much HDR content you watch on the side. The P Series 2016 has both great HDR picture quality and a low latency SDR port, so it's the best of both worlds and more.

Update 06/30/2017: For HDR gaming we recommend the TCL P607 over both Vizio's, due to its lower HDR input lag.

On your Vizio M 2017 Review when it comes to gradient does the Vizio M 2017 do a good job with gradients? Like would you see any banding? I had a tv with bad banding on gradients, and it really bothered me. I just wondered because you gave the Vizio E 2017 a 9.5 for gradient and then the Vizio M 2017 an 8.5. Just wondering if the gradient on the Vizio M 2017 is good. Thanks

The Vizio M Series 2017 banding is a bit worse than on other TVs when it comes to 10 bit content like HDR UHD Blu-rays. We displayed the same scene from The Martian movie (at 00:46:36) that we already did a test on for the comparison between the Sony A1E and the LG C7 and the Vizio M Series 2017 did have more banding in comparison.

Here are the picture of the banding comparing the Vizio M Series 2017 with the LG C7 and the Sony A1E.

Vizio M Series 2017 Vizio M Series 2017 Banding
LG C7 LG C7 Banding
Sony A1E Sony A1E Banding
I was going to buy a 2016 M65 but knew the 2017 M65's were coming soon so I waited. Now I see this review and the 2017 M's went from 120Hz to 60Hz refresh rates, no motion interpolation option AND their lag input when from a low of 17.1ms 1080@60Hz on the '16 to a not that great 40.4ms 1080@60Hz on the '17. A non-TV expert like myself would say the 2017's are worse than the 2016s?
In some ways it is worse, but it does offer some advantages for HDR. It's significantly brighter, and it sports a wide color gamut, which the previous model lacks. If your usage doesn't really focus on HDR that much, then you might be better off with the 2016 model.
Does the higher peak brightness make the M Series 2017 a better choice than the P Series 2016 for HDR movies?
The P Series 2016 is definitely better for HDR movies. The P Series has higher HDR real scene brightness, which is the most important test, so the M Series 2017 will only have brighter highlights during really dark scenes. The P Series's local dimming is also far better.
So what's the input lag for 4k @ 60 Hz + HDR outside of game mode? Like can I play in vivid rather than game mode and still have decent input lag? Currently used to 22ms.
The input lag for 4k @ 60 Hz + HDR in Vivid is 62.6, which is quite high for intensive gaming. It will be noticeably worse than 22 ms. If you are concerned about HDR Game mode's low brightness but still want good input lag, enable 'Dynamic Contrast' or play in SDR.
Why would the input lag be different when the HDFury is added to the chain? Could it perhaps be related to the HDMI/HDCP version being different? Was the increase in lag a consistent +10ms in all your tests?
This is the only TV for which the input lag from the Leo Bodnar tool was different than from the whole chain. The TV processes the signal from the tool differently than how it processes the signal from any other source. The 'Game Low Latency' toggle does nothing, and sharpness is disabled. We don't know what's different about the tool that makes the TV handle it differently, but any game console or PC will not be processed this way. We do know the tool sends an odd HDMI signal, as the HDFury Linker will not accept the signal from the tool if it's not passed through the Integral first. The only tests we can do using the tool alone are 1080p @ 60 Hz in game mode, out of game mode and with interpolation, which were all ~29 ms because the 'Game Low Latency' toggle does nothing and the TV doesn't have interpolation.
Can the new remote be used on the 2016 models?
We can't confirm if it will work on all the 2016 models, but it worked on the P Series 2016 (and E Series 2017) on the latest firmware. It seems the on screen menus were added to some or all 2016 models even though they don't come with the remote needed to access them.
Novice here - are HDR and HDR10 the same? And do I need an AV receiver that says it supports HDR10 or that it simply supports HDR?
There are a few different HDR video formats. HDR10 is the most popular format, but there is also Dolby Vision, HLG and a few others. To be qualified as "HDR Compatible" a device needs to support at least HDR10.
I love the site, get me a question, the UJ7700 in game mode and standard has the peak of brilliance around 400 to 450 cd / m, 100% sustained? Do I run the risk of the TV oscillating the brightness in this mode? I say this because I liked the TV and I have a room with moderate to slightly bright lighting and focus on making my K / D climb up with it due to the low input lag. I took these from the calibration data that you had. Thanks.
Yes, the UJ7700 will be able to output a sustained 450 nits if using the standard picture mode with the local dimming turned off. We haven't noticed any variation in brightness over time.
Is the 2017 M Series an upgrade over the 2016 model?
Depending on your use, it may be. The 2017 model has a wider color gamut and gets brighter than the M Series 2016, resulting in a better HDR experience. For SDR content though it is slightly worse due to the fewer local dimming zones resulting in worse dark scene performance. The 2016 model also has better input lag for SDR only, due to the game low latency port. If you plan to watch a lot of HDR content or play HDR games then go with the 2017 M Series, but otherwise go for whichever is cheaper.

Update 06/30/2017: For HDR gaming we recommend the TCL P607 over both Vizio's, due to its lower HDR input lag.

Can we just stop referring to RGBW panels as 4k, or even "4k"? They're not UHD, and LG doesn't need to be encouraged by anyone lumping these hunks of trash in with real UHD TVs.
They are still legally 4k panels, even if their color resolution isn't 4k. It's similar to how all 4k Blu-rays use 4:2:0 color subsampling, so their color resolution is only a quarter of 4k, yet they are still considered 4k because the human eye is far more sensitive to black and white resolution than to color.
I would love to see an article on the qualities of TVs in reference to each of the major game boxes. For example, I have already discovered from one or your Q&A articles that a PS4 benefits from HDR while the Xbox One does not.
Going in depth into the capabilities of game consoles isn't really in the scope of our website, and is covered very well on other sites. With regards to picture quality the only differences are what output signals they support: 4k vs 1080p, HDR or not. The original Xbox One doesn't support 4k or HDR, the PS4 supports 4k and HDR from some sources, and the PS4 Pro and Xbox One S support 4k and HDR from many sources. If you will be gaming in HDR on the PS4 Pro and Xbox One S, our HDR Gaming score is the most important. For non HDR gaming on all consoles our Video Games score is best, and for PC gaming both our PC Monitor and Video Games scores are relevant, with PC Monitor being more important.
Assuming the measured input lag using the Leo Bodnar test equals input lag + response time, how can the input lag be 11 ms and the response time be 15 ms?
The Leo Bodnar tool sends a frame with a white rectangle, and records the time until its photodiode measures light above a certain threshold. This brightness threshold is fairly low, so the photodiode will declare the frame received long before the TV is finished its 0%-100% transition. Because of this the TVs response time usually only adds a few milliseconds to its input lag. To minimize this we measure input lag at maximum brightness with local dimming off.

Hello! I bought the Samsung KS8000 a couple months back based on your guys' review and recommendation of this TV for 4K HDR gaming. It was amazing! And I still love it. But there is a HUGE issue that is affecting the WHOLE 4K HDR gaming community who uses this TV. There's random Red/Blue color separation that happens to anyone who plays games on this TV. It happens for a couple seconds about every half hour, making me dizzy and noxious. Samsung is being silent about this, although the outcry from the community is getting enormous.

I believe they will stay silent until major websites start addressing this issue, and letting people know about this! People like you are our only hope that they'll publicly address and vow to fix this issue. We can't even really have tech support come out to look at the TV for fear they will charge us, if we can't recreate the problem by playing a video game in front of them within their time frame. This is so bogus! Please help us! Let me know if you can do anything please. Thank you so much for your time.

Thank you for contacting us about this issue. We have made a note in the 'Input Lag' section of this review, and will continue to update the review in the future if the issue is fixed.
I had the lb6300 from years back. Horrible tv. In my opinion, IPS shouldn't be used for TVs. The gray-blacks were terrible, and clouding everywhere. Back then LG had a mode to make the blacks look better at the expense of crushing all shadow detail. Hopefully LG eventually switches to VA panels. Their OLED is amazing but LCD TVs are just bad.
They generally indeed have worse picture quality, but it isn't very noticeable in a brighter environment. If it's used mostly in the day time or in a lit up room, then a good IPS TV will often be even better suited than a VA type LCD TV.
In your review you say that content can be cast to the TV from a smartphone. When you say "cast", do you mean Google Cast, as in I could cast from Netflix or Hulu on my phone if I wanted to? Or is it more of a simple mirroring feature that just mirrors my phone screen to the TV?
Yes, you can cast from within casting supporting apps such as Netflix.
So I am trying to decide between the MU7000 65inch and the Vizio P 65inch. Which is the better TV?
When comparing these two models directly, the Vizio P Series performs better than the MU7000 for every usage. The local dimming feature of the P Series helps sets it apart by allowing it to display deeper blacks, and its excellent response time allow it to display fast-moving images very sharply.
Do you know What will MU7000 be equivalent to in Chile? also I'd like to know the KS8000 equivalent.

Please note that only US models are subject to our tests.

Based on past naming conventions, it is likely that the MU7000 will be named MU6400 in Chile. This is based in part on the fact that the KU6400 that is currently out in Chile appears to be very similar to the North American KU7000. Similarly, the North American KS8000 shares characteristics with the KS7000 which is currently out in Chile.
Does the MU7000 lack any features, benefits, or capabilities of the Ku7000? The MU7000 is a year newer but costs about $300 less?
It is basically the same TV so go for the cheapest, in that case, the MU7000.
Does 1080p @ 120 Hz + HDR on Windows 10 give a really bright gamma? My 55C7 seems to be having this problem. 60 Hz HDR is fine though, as is 120 Hz SDR.
Confirmed with Shadow Warrior, HDR, 120 Hz, in and out of PC mode. With HDR at 120 Hz the TV shows that it's playing HDR content but it appears to follow the SDR gamma curve rather than the HDR PQ curve. The game is still displaying a picture made for the PQ curve, so everything looks off. The review has been updated to state that HDR does not work properly at 120 Hz.
Do you avoid ads if you don't use the smart functions?
If the TV doesn't have internet access you shouldn't see any ads. With internet access, we've only seen ads on LG and Samsung TVs. On LG TVs they're only in the app store and voice searches, so if you don't use these then you'll never see them. On Samsung TVs ads are almost unavoidable because they're on the home menu, which is needed to access nearly everything the remote doesn't do. Heavy use of voice commands (if the TV is capable) can let you avoid using the home menu as much as possible.
How does the MU7000 compare to the MU6300?
Both TVs offer very similar performance (contrast, brightness, viewing angle, input lag and sound). They are almost the same TV but the MU7000 supports a wide color gamut for HDR.
It's a shame to see LG's LED TVs stumble right out of the gate. It gives the impression that they only know hot to do OLED, and should the industry experience something akin to what happened with Plasma to OLED, LG might very well fall off of the face of the TV market (similar to Panasonic). All that aside, I notice that the Overall Score has been replaced with a Mixed Score, much like the headphone section. Now while I can understand that with headphones (some are designed for very specific purposes, after all), I feel the Overall Score was a much more important factor with TVs. Yeah, you do occasionally get someone who is trying to get a TV for JUST gaming, but most of the time an overall assessment of TVs is much more sought after.
The biggest difference between the old Overall Score and the new Mixed Score is the name. Both use the same test results, and the same models with come out on top or at the bottom using either system. The previous system assigned weights directly to each test result to calculate the Overall Score. The current system assigns weights to each test to calculate each Usage Score, then Usage Scores are weighted to calculate the Mixed Score. Scores calculated in one way or the other are essentially the same, but the name 'Mixed Score' is more representative of the final score we assign to a TV.
Can you check the audio latency/lip sync of the TV? I have a 2016 Vizio D-series 1080p, and it has an input lag of 26.5ms (according to Rtings) but an audio lag of ~85ms (measured with a laptop and Audacity) on the HDMI inputs, meaning that audio is out of sync from the video by ~58.5ms. I'd like to know if out-of-sync audio is a problem in other/current Vizio TVs.
On the Vizio E Series 2017, sound is played 100 ms before the corresponding image both with 'Game Low Latency' mode On and Off. On the Vizio M-Series 2017, for which our full review should be out mid-June, sound matches the image with 'Game Low Latency' mode Off, while sound is played 83 ms before the corresponding image with 'Game Low Latency' mode On. These delays are on the edge on human perceptibility, but were still noticeable on the E Series.

Thank you for your input!

Hi, I'm looking for a new TV, mainly for gaming, and am trying to decide between this or the Vizio M series but am having a bit of a hard time understanding why you consider the Vizio a better gaming TV. The LG not only seems to have much better input lag but also has a wide color gamut. So what makes the Vizio a better gaming TV? I've also heard it has a lot of issues even using HDR period.
The LG UJ7700 does have lower input lag than the Vizio M Series, but the M Series outperforms the UJ7700 in most of the other categories that are considered for the SDR Gaming usage score. For example, the M Series has a lower response time, resulting in less motion blur for fast-paced action sequences in games. Color gamut is not included in the SDR Gaming rating, as it only makes a difference for HDR content. Color gamut has a high impact on the score for the HDR Gaming category, causing the LG UJ7700 and Vizion M Series to have much closer scores for the HDR Gaming usage score.
I was looking at the comparison chart between the X800E and MU8000 and you scored a 60hz television higher than the 120hz Samsung for sports? You may want to correct that. You have the Samsung higher in every category other than viewing angle and black frame insertion. Just saying that most opinions and even your own numbers would make it seem the Samsung is the clear winner.

The lower viewing angle of the Samsung MU8000 is the main issue that causes it to fall behind the Sony X800E for the Sports category. With a 12% weight for that score component for Sports, the relatively large difference in viewing angle between the two models is the main cause of the difference you're seeing in the final score. The Samsung MU8000 has a lower viewing angle which means the image loses accuracy when viewed at an angle. If you watch sports with a group of people or have a wide seating arrangement, the X800E is a better choice, but if you watch them from directly in front, then both TVs are very similar for Sports viewing. You can use the '+ Create your own' function to create a Rating that best reflects your viewing conditions.

Regarding the refresh rate differences, since all sports channels currently broadcast at a maximum of 60 Hz, a 120 Hz monitor will use Motion Interpolation to increase the 60 fps input to display it at 120 fps. Motion Interpolation makes movement appear smoother, but may add artifacts to the final image or make motion appear unnatural to some people. Choosing between 60 Hz video and 120 Hz Interpolated video is mostly a matter of personal preference, and is not included in the Sports rating.


According to hdtvtest there is a way around it:

Engaging Game mode resulted in a response time of 21 ms, but additional benefits could be gained by using another method: labeling an HDMI input as 'PC' would produce the same low latency, with the added bonus of full 4:4:4 chroma reproduction and accurate colours in the calibrated 'ISF Expert' presets. However, relabeling the HDMI input to 'PC' didn’t lower input lag in HDR. In order to reach a response time of 21 ms with HDR, we had to use 'HDR Game' mode where 'Colour Gamut' could be switched from 'Wide' to 'Auto' for more accurate colour reproduction.

We were able to confirm that following the steps you mentioned allow for 21 ms responsiveness and 4:4:4 chroma reproduction on the C7. We also found the same results in HDR Game mode.

Thank you for your feedback.

Hi, As far as web surfing with the 3.0 b6 or 3.5 webOS c7, does the magic remote work like a mouse with the web browser? In other words, can I surf the internet and click on any link using the magic remote like a mouse? Thanks, Alan
Yes, the magic remote functions just like a traditional mouse cursor making it a much better experience than other Smart TV web browsers.
I just picked up the 75" X900E at Bestbuy and it has no power brick like the massive one the X930D had. It must be internal on this screen size for the X900E.
Thank you for the information. The review has been updated to mention this.