To reduce the input lag to a minimum, we set the input type to PC, as we do with all Samsung TVs. If you want to use a setting that processes the picture before displaying it, don't perform that step. We prefer to have those settings turned off so we can get the picture as close possible to what it was intended to be.
The brightness setting was off by just one point compared to the default value of 45. This is a bit rare for Samsung TVs. If you want to change the luminosity of the screen, play with the backlight setting instead of the brightness. Otherwise, you will reduce your contrast ratio and/or won't have a flat gamma curve.
In the advanced settings menu, most options are disabled because the input type was set to PC. As a side note, the Dynamic Contrast option does not actually increase the maximum contrast ratio of the panel. Instead, it is a software-only feature that changes the dark gray colors to be more black and the bright gray more white, (but the pure white and pure black don't change).
As for the white balance, it was almost perfect.
In the picture options menu, we only changed the color temperature to Standard. This was a first for us. Normally, for a Samsung TV, Warm2 is closer to 6500K than Standard. This TV is the exception.
Questions & Answers
67 ANSWERED QUESTIONS
When do you plan to post calibration settings for H7150?
It was a bug on our website. The settings are up now. Thanks for letting us know!
Calibration for 55" H7150, TS-01, update ver. 2123 users.
OK, so now that I have had time to get acquainted with the set I have some more definitive settings. I tried the various calibration settings suggested earlier on the thread (PC, CAL-DAY, Movie mode etc.) None of these will work for this version of the TV. They all end up looking like you are wearing green or yellow dirty tinted sunglasses. Getting into the expert calibrations menu, changing the input name, etc. are not needed on this configuration anymore. The color is, indeed, just about perfect as-is. Just use the default Standard mode and the settings below. The settings will vary by source, however. So use the "Current Source" option under "Apply Picture Mode."
If you are coming from plasma to LED, you will have to get used to reduced picture quality and contrast. Resist the temptation to set the backlight to maximum to make up for the deficiency, or your eyes will get tired very quickly. Best option is to reduce the light in your room and try to keep the Backlight to around 14-17. Here is the absolute best picture I could squeeze out of this set (if a setting is not listed use the default):
CABLE SETTINGS (HD 1080i, 780)
Picture Mode: Standard
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast: Off (you may want to go to Low on some shows but it causes skin over saturation on most broadcasts)
Black Tone: Dark
Color Space: Native
Color tone: Standard
Digital Clean View: Off
Mpeg Noise Filter: Off
Film Mode: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Cinema Black Low
Sound Mode: Standard (the Movie and Surround setting produce a tinny sound on cable)
STREAMING CONTENT (Netflix, Vudu etc.)
Picture Mode: Standard
Picture Size: Screen Fit (if available)
Dynamic Contrast: Low (go to Medium for animation)
Black Tone: Dark
Color Space: Native
Color Tone: Standard
Digital Clean View: Off
Mpeg Noise Filter: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Sound Mode: Movie
Make sure you turn off all the Eco Solutions stuff under the System Settings.
There will be considerable blurring and judder on some cable networks/shows. The Auto Motion Plus settings do little to help this and make the viewing experience unbearable (some people call this the "soap opera" effect but I think it looks more like some kind of weird "live human animation"). You should be dubious of anyone who tells you to enable this mode. The good news is that the blurring and judder virtually disappear when streaming HD content.
In my opinion, at an 8-10 foot viewing distance, the 55" is a bit too big with full screen content. Letterbox movies look pretty good, though.
This is an inexpensive/cheap set so don't worry too much about the lackluster PQ. Just use it for now and spend the money you saved purchasing this TV to buy a good replacement for plasma when it becomes affordable (in 3-4 years probably).
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
What auto motion plus setting would you recommend for sports?
Disable it. If you put it to Smooth or Standard, it will increase the fluidity/reduce the blur, but it will also introduce artifacts. For movies, these artifacts are not an issue, but they will be for sports. For example, a fast-moving ball might disappear completely. This isn't very common for football, but it is for hockey, because the puck is small.
We just purchased the Samsung 65" H7150. We have a receiver (not Samsung) and we play movies off of our PS4. The lips are not syncing with what they are saying and the picture skips a lot. We turned off the Motion and this helped with skipping, but not the lip sync. What do we do?
Don't worry, this can be fixed easily. I am assuming your PS4 is connected to your receiver, which is connected to your TV. Delay the audio in the receiver. Most receivers should have that option, which is sometimes called A/V Sync.
How come I cannot change the HDMI Black Level on my Samsung H7150? It says "this function is not available". Also, what is the point of turning off the Digital Clean View function? Thanks, and great site!
The HDMI black level setting will be deactivated when you are not using HDMI or if the setting doesn't change the picture. Don't worry about that. Digital Clean View is a noise filter/details enhancer. It basically tries to improve the picture. It is not needed if the source is high quality.
The black bars at the top and bottom when playing movies are not really black - more like a washed-out black (my previous TV is a plasma, a Pioneer Kuro, and has good blacks). Your review mentioned that this has good blacks. What kind of setting enables that?
The blacks are good for an LED TV. Of course, it won't beat your Kuro plasma. No LED TV will (unless it uses local dimming, but this creates other problems). That said, verify that it isn't a calibration issue. Change the 'HDMI Black Level' option.
Usually for cable HDTV, the PQ is quite awful. Do you recommend opening up those bells and whistles on this panel for better PQ on cable? I found that noise filters and motion blur help! Maybe great sources like Blu-ray do not need this, and thus you use the "PC" mode.
Yes, for low-quality content, turning on Digital Clean View and MPEG Noise Filter will help. Some people also like to increase the sharpness, although not everyone does.
I have a H7150 65", and connected my optimus amplifier but don't have sound from my external speakers. I connected an A/V cable to rear of tv in audio inputs and the same into my amp.
I am assuming you mean the sound of the TV to your amp? If so, you need to use either HDMI ARC, the digital optical audio out, or the 3.5mm output (but that last one is not recommended). The RCA connections on the TV are inputs - not outputs.
If I connect my Dish receiver to a soundbar (to get full 5.1 surround sound from receiver), how can I get sound from Amazon/YouTube/Netflix apps on TV to the soundbar? Will I need to connect the TV to the soundbar as well? I'm kind of assuming yes.
You have a few options. The popular ones are via HDMI ARC or the Digital Optical Audio Out.
The browser seems incredibly slow, I understand that it's generally slow, but mine seems to lock up for minutes at a time and becomes completely unresponsive. Are there any configuration options that would aid speed? I would rather use this directly than use Netflix, YouTube apps, etc.
Ours was also slow (check out our video of the Samsung's smart features) and it did crash the whole TV on more than one occasion. There doesn't seem to be any way to fix this.
I am a little confused about the whole PC mode thing. Does this do anything special beyond what you can do by just going in and disabling the individual settings in default mode? If not, what is the point?
It is a little bit different. Visually, it is similar to Movie mode (assuming you turn off all options), but with lower input lag.
For the Samsung 7150, I have calibration questions. I will use the TV for FPS gaming (need low latency), sports, and then movies. I looked at your calibration section, and for gaming it looks like you have that covered. So next sports. Should I create a second mode with the PC settings and then just turn off "auto motion plus"? Then for movies, what settings do you suggest? Thanks for this website! I learned a lot from it.
It depends on your preference. You could use the same settings for all your usage. This means the picture will have no processing. It's great for games, because the input lag is low. For movies, assuming the source is a good one, it is also great, because the picture will be very close to what was intended. If the source is low quality, though, you will prefer another mode with a few noise filters turned on. Same thing for sports. Movie mode is a good in-between mode.
I currently have a 65" H7150. I have settings dialed in to your recommended calibration, and was comparing Game mode vs PC mode. I notice the picture becomes noticeably washed out in PC mode even though the settings appear identical in Game mode. Any idea why this is?
It depends what you mean by washed out. It could be the Sharpness setting. Under PC mode, 50 means 0 (I don't know why Samsung doesn't use the same scale).
I've read in certain places online that utilizing Auto Motion Plus is preferred/necessary for watching 3D movies due to it helping to add depth, etc. Can you advise? Currently, I have Auto Motion Plus set to "OFF" for everything (gaming, streaming, non-3D Blu-rays)
Try it yourself and see what you prefer. It is definitely not necessary, though.
I just got the H7150 a week ago and I have switched between game mode and PC mode with my PS4. The game mode looks better, but seems to have slightly higher input lag. It feels like it's a little slower-moving while playing Call of Duty. The PC mode feels better for lag, but doesn't look as good, and the settings are the same. The picture just feels dull and lacks the pop of colors that game mode has. I was wondering if there is any way to fix that, or is it a problem?
We actually measured very similar input lag in both modes (43.7ms vs 43.4ms). Are you sure the difference is not just in your head? Try doing a blind test (find someone to either setup the blind test for you or to be the test subject).
I recently purchased the 55" Samsung 7150 model and the brightness of the picture gets darker or lighter depending on the light from the room. When surrounding light is bright, the picture is perfect, but if I dim surrounding lights the picture fades to darker.
This is normal. You need to turn off the ECO sensor, found under the System tab.
I mostly use my TV for playing video games, watching Blu-rays, and streaming shows over Netflix/Amazon Prime. Is using your settings above in Game Mode (to take advantage of the low input lag for games) ok for all of these things, or should I only use Game Mode for playing games? Also, PC mode and Game Mode seem similar. What are the differences between both?
You can use Game mode for everything, if you want. Some people prefer Movie mode for movies/TV shows because you can control more features within it (like adding the soap opera effect). PC mode and game mode are virtually the same, except PC mode is even more restrictive in terms of processing.
This is hands down that best TV site. Thank you. So, if I am correct, the point of PC mode is to reduce the input lag beyond what you can do in the normal menu. I know that reduced input lag benefits games, but what else will it improve?
The input lag matters only just when you are interacting with the TV (video games, PC monitor, etc). For movies, TV shows or sports, it doesn't matter at all, because the sound is also delayed (assuming the sound is outputted by the TV).
I'm considering purchasing a Sonos 5.1 system. The soundbar has an input for optical audio only. Does the 7150 support only 2-channel audio output from the optical output? If not, I'll probably choose a different soundbar that supports HDMI arc.
I didn't test that, but I don't think it supports 5.1 via optical.
I bought the H7150 because it claims to deliver "true HD" resolution, but it has given me everything BUT good resolution. I have Comcast as my cable provider. After weeks of messing around with the settings I have narrowed down my problem to the 2 point White Balance settings. What are the best White Balance settings (On STANDARD PIC MODE) for use with Comcast HD programming? Please help end my frustration! Thanks.
The white balance has nothing to do with the resolution. It only calibrates the accuracy of the colors. It doesn't affect the amount of detail / clarity at all. If you have a problem with this, it is most likely your source. The TV can compensate a little bit for a low quality source, but not much. Turning on 'Digital Clean View' will help a little bit.
I have the 65" 7150, and everything is great. The only strange thing is that when the screen is black in a dark room there are white flashlight type shadows on the corners, as well as in the middle. Whats up with this? Is it normal?
Flashlighting is a normal issue, but shouldn't be bad enough to be distracting. If it's ruining your experience with your TV, bring it in and exchange it for a different unit. Do note, however, that no LED TV will have perfect uniformity.
I recently purchased this model and tweaked the TV settings as explained in this calibration. However, when using my PS4, I noticed there is random red noise in the screen (it's like grain, but with red dots instead of white). This only happens when using the PS4. Is that normal, and is there anything I can do to make them disappear?
This isn't normal. This kind of problem usually appears if your HDMI is damaged or there is too much interference. Try another HDMI cable to see if the problem persists.
I'm getting a 65" H7100 TV and will be using it mainly to watch HD TV from Comcast. I'm a heavy DVR user, and I also watch Blu-ray movies. What setting should I use, as I've seen different ones here for cable TV and Blu-ray.
Our settings work better for Blu-ray or high quality sources like video games or PC. For lower quality media (like HD channels or compressed videos), most people prefer Standard mode with a few options disabled (like Auto Motion Plus and Dynamic Contrast). You will have to play a little bit, though, because the line between over and under processed is a personal preference when using low-quality media.
I have a 60" Samsung 7150. I have only had it a couple weeks and the volume setting somehow has been messed up. I have tried to reset it to default settings, but still no luck. Right now I need to turn it up to almost 100 to hear at normal volume. Any suggestions?
If you have reset it and the problem is still there, call Samsung. It could be a defect.
What is the best way to hook up the H7150 to an Xbox One with Dish Network? The AV receiver is a Yamaha v477. I would like to use ARC via HDMI 2 on the TV, but I don't have an option to select PC as instructed in your guide.
Turn on Game mode instead (under System, General).
My previous Samsung TV has a convenient 'select Picture Mode' button on the remote in addition to the Picture Size option. I cant find it on the remote on this TV. It's annoying to go into the menu to change from Standard to Movie, etc. Am I missing something, or has Samsung truly removed that option? I see the A B C D buttons. Are those programmable?
These buttons are not programmable. Changing the picture mode requires one more step on the smart remote. The simplest way is probably pressing 'Keypad' and then selecting 'P.Mode'.
I purchased the 55' H1750 about a week ago and I love the TV. But I'm concerned about the picture quality for gaming. I took off game mode when playing the Xbox One on the HDMI/DVI PORT. I'm wondering whether I really need to turn on Game Mode?
If you care about the input lag, then yes, you really need to turn on Game mode. That said, a lot of gamers don't care that much about input lag, so use the settings that please you the most.
I have the 60" H7150, brand new, and am trying to use my OTA antenna as I did with the previous box TV. All TVs in our house use the antenna. But the Samsung will only receive a few obscure channels (not the basic ABC, NBC, CBS, PBS that I should get). Samsung support just told me I need an outdoor antenna. But it isn't the antenna. Do you have any suggestions?
We didn't test the OTA reception on it. I am assuming that you went through the whole auto detection of channels setup, but just in case, try to rerun it and verify that the antenna is connected correctly. It could be that the OTA receiver isn't as good on the H7150, but I doubt it would cause such a huge difference.
Hello, could you please tell me if the name on the source makes a difference? I have AT&T U-verse, do you know what it should be at? Should it be on TV, Cable STB, Satellite STB? I have the signal going to the cable box and an HDMI cable from the box to the TV.
Most names don't do any difference. PC does. In your case, you can set it to Cable STB.
Thank God for the work you are doing, I LOVE your reviews & help! I can't find any info on Costco's 60H7100A that I'm considering purchasing. Is it because the 7100A is a Costco part#? Is it really a 7150 in Samsung language? Do you know anything about 7100A?
Yes, the Samsung 7100 is a Costco-only model. It is identical to the 7150, but also comes with a wireless keyboard. It's a great TV.
I purchased Samsung 7160 65" couple days ago after reading the review on this website. The picture is good and so far, so good.
I had a Samsung 60" TV before and it has a red power indicator light at the lower right corner. When the TV is off, the light would come on solid and blink when getting turned on. There was also sound feedback when turning off the TV.
I can't find any feedback mechanism when turning on or off for the 7150. Do you know if there is a way to get a sound feedback, as I do not see a light indicator in the front. Thanks.
Unfortunately, there is no longer an option for a startup sound.
Hey everyone! I need help with my Samsung 55" TV. When I'm watching a movie on satellite/Direct TV, it looks fine, but as soon as I switch from HDMI to AV or play a movie using the Amazon app on the TV, it makes the movie look like a soap opera. That setting for that effect is turned off when in HDMI/satellite mode, but with anything else, it gets that soap opera feel to it. Can this be fixed??
You need to adjust the settings for each input. Open the Amazon app and then go to your picture settings and disable Auto Motion Plus. You'll also need to do the same for any inputs that have the motion interpolation feature active.
I have a 60" H7150, what are the best recommended settings for this tv for xbox one gaming, and which is a better mode for input lag, pc, or game? The games don't look as clear as i would like them to. Thanks!
Our calibrated settings should be good for all contents including video games. Both PC mode and game mode will get you the lowest input lag (we measured 43.4 ms) so they are equally good.
Thank you for all of this info! Just got the H7150 yesterday. I wanted to try a 3D movie using Plex, via the smart hub (the movie is a side by side 3D format). When I first tried it, I pushed the wrong 3D setting and chose 2D to 3D. Only then did I realize I should have chosen side by side. Now when I turn on 3D settings, I can't choose side by side - it just gives me 2D to 3D. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
You should still be able to select Side by Side. Have you disabled the 2d to 3d option? Maybe it was still on.
I had PC mode working for all of two minutes, and then I changed the channel and it reverted back. PC mode (NOT game mode) is the only setting that makes football even watchable on my H7150. Now I cannot get PC mode back. Please tell me how to get back to PC mode- not how to work around it, as you mentioned above. Please tell me how to get to and stay in PC mode, regardless of the input source. Love the website.
I am not exactly sure I understand your issue. You need to tag every source that you have to PC one by one. You can't assign them all at once.
I just got a 55" 7150. I've got the smart remote, and when the browser is opened I get the page to scroll with the arrows on the regular remote, but the controls at the center of the smart remote seem to have no effect. Are they supposed to scroll the page?
No, but you can use a swiping motion to scroll the page (swipe on the area between the arrows).
People that can't get back to PC Mode or only see edit name: disconnect the HDMI and connect it again. I changed it to a different HDMI port and then put it in PC Mode.
My question is, how do I program the smart remote to use the TV in PC Mode? I can set it to PC Mode, but when I configure the Universal Remote feature it goes back to HDMI1 with the set top box logo, and I can tell its no longer in PC Mode because all those Advanced Features are there under Picture.
Do you have to give up using the universal remote programming to keep it in PC Mode?
This wasn't something we tried with the TV, but we do not expect the universal remote programming feature to work while the TV is in PC mode. Try using Game mode instead. It's pretty close to PC mode, and there's a chance that it might allow universal remote programming.
I got the 55 inch and it's a great TV, but when turning in games (Xbox One), I can see bright white on blacks or in the grass or on fences. Kinda hard to explain, but its very noticeable. Any idea what it is?
This is fairly common. These are artifacts created by aliasing, and in video games they're commonly found in things like fencing and grass. This is related to the console and the way it is trying to display the game. It isn't anything to worry about. Try turning down your TV's sharpness setting, as oversharpening can sometimes lead to aliasing issues.
When you say you set to PC mode keep "input lag to a minimum", what lag are you referring to? The remote control lag?
It applies to things like a PC mouse, or video game controls - anything that you interact with that then causes a change in what you are seeing. There will be a lag between when you make an input and when the result of that input appears on the screen. That is the input lag number.
I've got black bars like a border around the non HD cable channels. Makes it seem like the TV is only 21". Any way to fix this?
SD channels have a lower aspect ratio than HD channels, and so your TV puts it between black bars so that you can watch it the content in its proper aspect ratio. You can try playing with the TV's display settings to stretch or zoom in on the content to get it to fit your screen, but the content will look distorted or cut off. You'll need to watch HD channels to get full, proper use of your screen.
I recently purchased the 65H7100, and as you have written, it is a great TV. The only problem is that when using the Netflix app on the TV, it will not play the sound through my external receiver. I am using the ARC feature (both TV and receiver support this), which works fine if Netflix is sourced through the Samsung Blu-ray player. Some commenters say that Samsung "captures" the sound from the apps and will not play through external receivers. Any suggestions?
ARC is meant to return audio back to a receiver, so it's likely that since the Netflix signal is originating from the TV, it won't transfer along that connection. You should be able to use an optical cable like this one to output your TV's audio to the receiver.
I have a Samsung H7100. It's about six months old. It's stuck in the stretch and zoom mode depending on the channel you watch. I can't find how to switch it off. Can you help me? Love this site. Thank you.
Try pressing the 'P. Size' button on your TV's remote. If that doesn't work, then you'll need to find the equivalent button on your satellite/cable remote and press that to change the picture settings at the source.
I have a new Samsung 60H7150. After it's been on for awhile (1 hr.+), I noticed the edge of the housing gets very warm to the touch. The upper left, in particular, is almost the hot to touch. Any thoughts?
We noticed this with our TV as well. It seems to be typical of these TVs, and is likely at least partly because it is an edge-lit TV (LEDs on the sides). It shouldn't be anything to worry about.
First of all, really enjoy the site! You guys helped me pick out my H7150 and for the most part I'm thrilled with it.
One small issue: we've noticed that for some streaming services (HBO GO, Netflix) we have a black bar at the bottom of the screen but not the top. In fact, a portion of the picture at the top of the screen appears to be cut off. We thought it was a zoom/picture fit issue but the "picture size" menu option isn't available. Any suggestions?
It does seem like a screen position issue. Since you won't be able to access the Picture Size menu, you might want to try resetting your TV to factory default settings and see if that solves the problem. Before you do a reset, be sure to write down all of your calibration settings, as well as any other features you have enabled, for all of your inputs. You can perform a reset by going to Support -> Self Diagnosis -> Reset.
I noticed on the 55" 7150 that face tones tend to be on the red side at Best Buy. I have an f6400 and my flesh tones are good. I am hesitant to buy the 7150 because of this issue. I can increase color to almost 100 and still have fleshtones normal
Floor models tend to be calibrated incorrectly, and the footage they display is meant to highlight certain elements of the picture, not to present an accurate idea of what the TV would look like with normal viewing. Accentuating reds in the picture sells more TVs, which is why Samsung uses that setting for the TV's retail mode. In other words, don't worry about what the picture looks like in the store.
I purchased the 55 inch model and have noticed that when a pure white is displayed, there are two bright areas (brighter white than the rest of the screen) at the bottom of the screen, seemingly equidistant from the center line. Is this characteristic of the set, or a flaw with the unit?
Uniformity issues are fairly common across all LED TVs. If you'd like to send us a photo of your specific case, we can let you know whether yours is typical or if it warrants an exchange.
I just purchased the 60 inch 7150. The quality is great for Blu-ray, streaming, and some TV channels. However, sports look terrible. There is a lot of motion blur, and when the camera is zoomed out, the players look blurry. My previous TV was a five-year-old Samsung LN40C630, and sports looked much better on that TV. I have turned auto motion plus on and off, and it didn't seem to make much of a difference. Do you have any suggestions for improving the quality for sports programming?
Try enabling 'Digital Clean View' to help clean up some of the compression artifacts in the video. You also might get better results by setting 'Auto Motion Plus' to 'Custom,' and then turning on 'LED Motion' and setting 'Deblurrer/dejudder' to off.
Just got the Samsung 7150 & am connected to Dish Network through an HDMI cable. We have it in the bedroom & it is ten feet away. No matter what settings I choose, I just can't seem to get a clear picture. Faces on people seem blurry. Help.
Unfortunately, Dish isn't a very high-quality source, so it's normal that video might not look great. Try using all of our settings, and then enable the 'MPEG Noise Filter' and 'Digital Clean View' settings to try to clean up issues arising from the video compression.
Your detailed reviews are excellent. Actually, I was bit late in ordering the UN46H7150, and my order got cancelled due to unavailability. Can you suggest some TVs which are similar to this one? Is it worth spending $1200-1500 on a 2015 J-series Samsung TV, or should I go for the UN48H6400? I care only about good picture quality. I don't need 4k or a curved screen (because my room is small).
The H6400 and the J6300 have about the same picture quality. The main differences are that the H6400 also has 3D, and comes with a smart remote. If you want those added features, go for the 6400. Otherwise, just get whichever is cheaper.
Another option is the Vizio E, which is similar in quality to the J6300, but has worse upscaling, no motion interpolation, and worse smart features. If you don't mind those downsides, pick one of those up instead.