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  1. Product

LG UT8000: Main Discussion

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  • Product Purchased
    Jul 4
  • In The Lab
    Jul 25
  • Testing
    Oct 15
  • Writing Review
    Oct 21
  • Editing
    Oct 23
  • Final Review
    Jul 17
    Full Review
Posted 1 month ago

Our full review is now available.

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    After 2kHz it’s all dimishing returns… I think 2khz is the sweetspot for smoothest performance while giving a decent amount of battery life. I have a fast enough PC for 4khz, but Id rather use 2khz since it makes literally no diff to game performance but does provide much more battery life. Also, less number of charging cycles which means battery life span will be better in the long run.

    Have a look at my other reply: https://www.rtings.com/discussions/ZyR9G_P2jB6yjAa8/review-updates-benq-zowie-ec2-dw?sort=newest#comment-187580

    It only make sense to use 1Khz or 4Khz, not in-between. The game either have controls and logic tied to framerate/polling rate (then stick with 1Khz in that very specific case because the programmers were expecting every mouse to be at 1000Hz), or just leave it at 4Khz and just charge your mouse every night like you do with all you other devices anyway (phone, TWS earbuds, etc).

    “Also, less number of charging cycles which means battery life span will be better in the long run.” - that’s why you don’t use the mouse until empty, 4Khz can last two days in a row, it won’t go below 45% charge if done properly, this has a convenient charging dock, there is almost no excuse for it to completely run out of battery like you do with your phone which everyone plug-in overnight as a nightly or bi-nightly ritual these days. If you charge your phone every night then what stops you from just placing your mouse on the charging dock that takes 1 second?

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    You are dependent on the game also being able to run 4KHz. A lot of games have issues if you actually saturate the bus (high dpi with low sens and fast movements). Very few games poll higher than 1KHz, a lot of games poll at the frame rate they are running, so 4KHz is more about loading the CPU than actual advantage in game unless the mouse and sensor runs in a very different mode at 4KHz. A lot of mice run the sensor in wired mode or similar to wired mode at highest Hz, but enable power savings at 1KHz and to some degree at 2KHz. Only way to know performance at 2KHz is to actually test it.

    The only game I find that does not work with >1Khz is some of the Persona games which are games designed for gamepads anyway and it is framerate capped at 120FPS because its game logic is tied to framerate and the camera controls is tied to mouse polling rate, so it’s a programming logic oversight than a hardware “bandwidth” issue.

    I have yet to find a modern PC shooter game that 4Khz doesn’t work with on my 13900K + RTX 4090 setup. e.g. Battlefield 3/4/1/5/2047, Call of Duty games, CSGO/CS2, Overwatch 2, Valorant, Fortnite, Helldivers 2, R6S, Ready or Not, Cyberpunk 2077, Halo MCC+Infinite, Ratchet and Clank (PC), RDR2, etc. If you bought this mouse then you probably already rocking a 7800X3D at the very least.

    I remember The Last of Us Part 1 on PC at launched had really stuttery camera with mouse and keyboard, increasing my polling rate from 1Khz to 4Khz actually helped a lot with smoothing out the camera rotational samples, so that’s one example where brute forcing shoddy camera programming with polling rate can actually help overcome the game’s limitations. They did eventually patched this so that it is now fine on 1Khz, but the point is that the higher polling rate actually helped than add any issues.

    So again I don’t see why you would stick with 2Khz for “better” battery life over 4Khz if you’re going to charge your phone, wireless earbuds, etc. every night, may as well just charge your mouse overnight at the same time, especially with a convenient charging dock like that. (And even at 4Khz it can last two days so if you forget to charge it one night it will still be fine the next day - you’re not going to forget to charge your phone two nights in a row)

    So you either just pick 1Khz for games that has game logic tied to framerate and mouse polling rate or 4Khz for anything else, I don’t see the point of 2Khz, it’s a weird compromise where it is can’t work on games that has game logic issues tied to framerate and polling rate (>1000Hz), then you 4Khz that is just better performance with enough battery life that can last you two days, especially when everyone charge their devices (phones, earbuds, etc) as a nightly ritual already.

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    Is there a True Black 400 mode on this monitor? I couldn’t find it.

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    Hi Rtings, For the sensor latency graph, could you post results on 2000Hz polling on both receivers, with and without motionsync as well? I think most people use 2kHz rather than 4kHz usually to conserve battery life. Also, it’s odd that the enhanced receiver is slower to respond at the same polling. Wondering if there is some extra processing for error correction or some other reason.

    Why use 2Khz if there is a convenient charging dock and the battery will last a couple of days anyway? Most people charge their phone and peripherals overnight so there is no chance that the mouse will run out of battery. Just stick with 4Khz.

    This mouse is expensive, so there is also a big chance you have an expensive PC too that can handle high polling rate just fine.

    Edited 1 month ago: added last sentence
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    Damm it seems to be a significant drop in sensor performance on the newest firmware

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    @138582

    Hello, any word if the EQ on PC can be transferred to PS5/Mobile? And/or do you need the app opened and running for the EQ to be active at all times?

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    They have updated the firmware of this mouse to now have 0ms click debounce mode.

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    Currently known as the best sounding TWS, eager to see the test results of these.

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    I received mine with a very old firmware that doesn’t even appear on their website, please make sure to update to latest firmware, I believe it may help with performance and/or consistency.

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    Did you test with the latest firmware update? The firmware note says it should Optimize latency time and Optimized Sensor data. EDIT: Oops sorry I didn’t read the post below

    Edited 6 months ago: EDIT: Oops sorry I didn't read the post below
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    I think the newest firmware should reduce the motion latency further

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    I think the newest firmware should reduce the motion latency further

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    Hi, any chance of testing with their 8K dongle?

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    Would also love to see “4K MotionSync-ON + Competitive mode-ON” vs “4K MotionSync-OFF + Competitive mode-ON” results. I wonder if there is any downsides to enabling motion sync at this point?

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    Hello ApolloPM, Thanks for the tip! We’ll definitely be looking into this further and plan to retest the ASUS ROG Harpe Ace Aim Lab Edition with the booster soon. Stay tuned for the updated results, and thanks again for your contribution!

    Thanks. They have more info here including products that will be compatible with the booster: https://www.reddit.com/r/ASUSROG/comments/1fdzar9/more_rog_peripherals_receiving_update_for/

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    Do we know if Asus is going to sell it separately? It’s marketed to work on more devices but when I asked Asus they didn’t really have an answer to when/if it’ll be sold separately Seems awfully strange

    I think we will see them in stock when they release the Harpe Ace Mini globally, only a small amount of retailers in Europe have the Harpe Ace Mini for sale at the moment, not yet here in Australia or America.

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    Hello mitlonginus, Thanks for catching that! You’re right, the ASUS ROG Harpe Ace Aim Lab Edition can achieve 8000Hz with the ASUS ROG Polling Rate Booster adapter. We’re currently working on getting one so we can test it out and update our review with the new performance results. We appreciate your patience, and we’re excited to see how it performs with the boost.

    You can use the polling rate booster from the Keris II Ace, just update the booster’s firmware

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    This mouse already supports wireless 8k polling rate, just for information. You can have a try with the polling rate accelarator included.

    Only recently via firmware update, it was locked to 4Khz for a long time

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    There’s a new firmware update but no patch note, I wonder if it changed the picture quality / HDR at all?

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    I only use software to setup my DPI and polling rate then I uninstall it (or disabled services). I charge my mouse with my phone overnight so I never really care about power savings on a mouse, I leave it at max polling nowadays.

    What’s wrong with 8Khz on single player games? I remember the launch version of The Last of Us on PC where the camera is very stuttery, I found that increasing my polling rate to 4Khz on my Viper Mini SE at the time significantly reduces the dropped/skipped inputs that the game was doing by brute forcing more samples. They eventually fixed this but this was a turning point for me to just leave the polling rate as it is for all games (to max).

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    Wired vs 1000hz vs 2000hz vs 8000hz would be interesting. Pollingrates of 4000hz and 8000hz is only usable in a few games while a lot can use 2000hz so for me the 2000hz result is actually more interesting than 4000hz.

    All modern games are playable on 8Khz (CS2, CSGO, Val, OW/OW2, BF4, BFV, BF2042, XDeviant, post-2019 COD games, GTAV, The Last of Us PC, Ratchet and Clank, Ghost of Tsushima, etc) it just depends on your hardware.

    When I had the Razer Viper 8K wired: My 6700K was playable on 8Khz. Then upgraded to the 3900X and it can’t go beyond 1Khz. My 5950X on the same motherboard can go up to 4Khz but not 8Khz. My current CPU, the 13900K on a Z790 is fine at 8Khz just like the old 6700K was.

    It could be bad AMD CCD latency, cache latency, memory latency or platform USB stability (X570 was notorious) that could be causing 8Khz compatibility.

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    Please make sure to do testing between 4000 and 8000Hz because PAW 3395-based mice tends to experience a lot more packet loss so that the retransmission of packets causes the latency to be worse at 8Khz than on 4Khz. (Razer with 3950 sensor doesn’t seem to suffer from this issue)

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    Has anyone got RTX HDR working properly with this monitor? It seems stuck to be stuck at 465 nits max brightness in RTX HDR’s brightness slider no matter what even when changing the APL Stabilize. The monitor’s EDID also doesn’t change, it just says 465 nits when changing between Peak 1000 and TB400.

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    Does enabling Super Resolution+ in the OSD introduces any extra processing lag?

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    This monitor has a EDID max luminescence value of 465 nits. Gigabyte needs to release a firmware update like the PG32UCDM to increase the value in EDID to atleast 1000 nits or else it is capped at 465 nits in RTX HDR making it unusable. Alienware and ASUS has their max luminescence to around 1000 nit in their EDID so RTX HDR looks decent on their end (I think MSI might have it at 1000 nits too).

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    Hi, could you test if the positioning of the enhanced receiver matters? They said optimal positioning is to the left of the mouse but it just gets in the way of the keyboard and monitor so I prefer placing it to the right but I don’t know if I’m sacrificing anything by doing that.

    Also motion sync on/off would be good to test too.

    Just a tip, you can lower the click latency by doing a set command to 4ms, the default is 8ms which not worth putting on the testing.

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    Its washed out because the HDR is busted on these monitors.

    Not washed out on my PS5 when viewing the same HDR content on Windows.

    HDR is busted on Windows period.

    Exactly

    Edited 3 years ago: replaced "PS5" with "my PS5"
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    Get your eyes checked.

    You should try to be less emotional in your posts, you look very insecure in all other posts we can see on your profile, especially like these ones:

    Are you blind? It looks absolutely horrific and is arguably worse than the crosshatching/dithering seen on TCL TV’s of late. They make no mention of it in any OLED review which I find absurd.

    You are blind and that’s fine but a WRGB display looks objectively disgusting compared to a regular RGB display. I’d go far enough to say that I could tolerate BGR better than WRGB since sitting distance hides it’s artifacts where as WRGB just looks disgusting from any normal viewing distance with text/web content.

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    You do have scanlines, you’re just not aware of them. This isn’t some QC issue, its a hardware compromise present on all of these monitors. Seriously just look at the blue Windows 10/11 volume bar when changing volume. I’m not even going to touch your conspiracy theory about Australia bound QC. The reason you received a made in Vietnam model vs made in Mexico is strictly logistics/cost (you’re closer to Vietnam, duh).

    My original G7 has scanlines, my Neo G8 does not, I use currently use my G7 as a secondary monitor. I know what to look for and can compare directly. I mentioned mine is Made in Vietnam as just addition information, I did not said that is what causes the better QC. You’re reading between the lines too much.

    Edited 3 years ago: spelling
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    240Hz doesn’t work on HDMI 2.1 on this monitor, capped at 4K 120Hz on HDMI 2.1

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    According to some rando on the Samsung Neo Ge8 forums on Samsung’s site people with 1003 firmware doesn’t have scanlines. I do at 240Hz, but not at 120Hz. I came from a 144Hz monitor so to me 120 isn’t a deal breaker for now.

    Mine is Firmware 1002, no scanlines.

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    Mine has no scanlines, bought locally in Australia. If it helps, mine says it is Made in Vietnam - May 2022 Batch. Firmware 1002. Usually product batches sent to Australia are of higher quality control, much stricter consumer protection law here so companies are very aware of it. When I import computer parts and phones from overseas they seem to break on me more quickly than the one I also bought locally.

    (e.g. ROG Phone 5 that I bought from USA and Hong Kong started malfunctioning within a couple of months so I return them, while the ROG Phone 5 I bought locally in Australia still working flawlessly after a year. Same with some Razer products, Orochi V2 I bought from Razer USA store have very inconsistent buttons while my local Australian copy is perfect, many more examples to fit here)

    Edited 3 years ago: added "many more examples to fit here"
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    There are other HDR image presets this monitor comes with but for some reason RTING only want to test the default “custom” preset which have conservative settings and some things turned off by default so looks washed out. Samsung monitors uses the worse possible case for their default preset for some reason while other manufacturer uses the default preset to over-saturate and over-contrast everything.

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