First off, we set the input type to PC to reduce the input lag to a minimum. This disables most of the processing options, which is why they appear grayed out in the rest of the pictures.
Like most Samsung TVs, the brightness and contrast are good by default. We reduced the backlight setting though, to hit our 100 cd/m2 target for white levels. If you have a few lights in your room, you might want to adjust it higher. A sharpness of 50 means no filter is applied (no blurriness and no edge enhancement).
Most options are disabled in PC mode, leaving the picture more natural and less processed.
This is the result of our two point grayscale calibration. This varies per panel.
Warm1 was the closest to our 6500K target white color. For our motion interpolation picture, we had to set the input type back to normal to be able to control the Auto Motion Plus settings. Film mode is the name of the 24p settings.
Questions & Answers
44 ANSWERED QUESTIONS
How do I change the input to PC? I want to use your settings but I can't figure out the first step.
Check out our video on the review page. Mid-way through we show you how.
Also having the same issue with changing the TV to PC mode. I followed your instructions, selected PC from the pre-established list, and all the color settings options are still available. Any ideas?
Strange. Is your source running? I just tried it on our UN55H7150. If the source is not turned on, all options are indeed available. But if it is on, they become grayed out. If it is still an issue, what is your exact model and firmware version?
I see that a lot of people are turning the auto motion plus feature off altogether. Are there any instances where this could be utilized and have a positive effect on the picture? I just purchased the Samsung H6350 and this is my first go at calibrating a TV like this. I do watch a ton of sports and I'm curious about whether this feature would benefit me.
As you can see from our picture of motion interpolation in our review, it does significantly reduce the amount of blur. It also makes the video more fluid, which is nice for low frame rate footage like movies (it mimics the effect of 48fps footage, which is how The Hobbit movies are displayed in theaters). There is a big downside, though (besides the input lag increase): it adds a lot of artifacts, especially when things are moving fast. For sports, this means the ball will sometimes disappear.
Hey guys, thanks for the great video. One thing, though: changing the Input name to PC doesn't actually affect the settings of the TV; it just changes the input name. When I do this in the Source Input menu, my lag doesn't change and I still see all the color settings options available to me, rather than them getting grayed out like they are in your screenshots. Is there a different process for getting to PC through changing settings on a 6350? Game mode works, but the picture sucks, so I'd like to try something different.
Make sure you select PC from the pre-established list, and not actually type in PC as a label via the keyboard. The picture quality will be very similar to game mode, though, because it disables most processing options.
We love our Samsung 6350, but when there is low light in the room the picture dims to a very low level. We have to keep lights on in order for the screen to stay bright. Is there a way to disable this?
Yes; just turn off the ECO sensor (located in the System tab).
How do I turn off or disable the auto dimming for dark picture/screen in the Picture Mode other than "Movies"? I am struggling with this issue for weeks after I bought the UN32H6350. I like the Standard mode but am not able to set the Movies mode as the same as the Standard mode.
If you mean the CE Dimming (where the whole screen darkens when a lot of black is displayed like the credits of movies), you cannot directly, but you can trick it. Increase the brightness setting of the TV to about 53 (or more, on some TVs). This should disable it. However, it has a negative effect of messing with the black color. To counter this, change the white balance: reduce the offset of all colors equally (red, green and blue) until the shadow details are good (should be around 12, depending on your set). Do not change the gain - just the offset. Finally, you can reduce the luminosity of the screen by lowering the backlight setting to your liking.
Are you sure that a Sharpness of 50 equates to no processing for this model? After calibrating my H6350 with a calibration disc, I found that turning Sharpness to 0 resulted in the smoothest curves and minimal moire patterns without introducing blurriness. It seems as if the factory Sharpness of 50 is in fact 50% of the maximum amount of sharpness enhancement (rather than neutral). I'm curious to see if anyone else can attest to this.
It actually depends on the mode. In PC mode (the one we used), 50 is really no processing. For standard, 0 is better.
You guys do a great job with your reviews and I find the info you pass along to be tremendously helpful, so thank you. Can you explain the 10 pt white balance, and where it should be set? I see it ranges from 10% to 100%, with different color settings at each percentage.
10 pt white balance is for a more precise calibration than the two pt one that we did. Both of these have the same goal: to adjust the colors of gray at different luminosities (which is why it is also called grayscale calibration). With 10pt, you display 10 variations of gray on the screen, one at a time. From 10% (very dark gray) all the way to 100% (pure white). The TV can let you adjust the gray colors at each point (not all TVs give you that option, though). A two pt calibration is a simplified version of this, where only the 30% and 70% gray variations are used. You then set the Offset of each color (the base value that affects both the dark gray and bright gray) and the Gain (which mostly affects the bright gray).In our reviews, we only do the simplified two pt calibration, so we can't tell you the 10 pt settings. We do the simplified way for two reasons. First, the white balance varies by individual panel, and you need a special tool (a colorimeter or a spectrophotometer), so it isn't useful to share anyway. Second, most people buying a TV will never do a real 10 pt grayscale calibration. Saying a TV can achieve precise colors after you spent hours calibrating it with a colorimeter would be misleading to the majority of customers who would never get it professionally calibrated. We still do a basic two pt calibration, though, to have comparable pictures, as well as to know how far off the calibration is straight out of the box.
Once the Input is changed to PC, is it then unnecessary to change the TV to "Gaming" mode? Is changing input to PC more beneficial than gaming mode? Because the option appears to be greyed out once the input is changed. On the UN40H6350.
Do one or the other - not both. Both have the same input lag, so it is a matter of personal preference. We always set our Samsung TVs to PC because it disables everything by default, whereas there are still some options left in Game mode.
I have a un46c6500vf and was thinking of upgrading. Is the picture quality of the h6350 or h7150 really better? Also, why do you never mention setting it to dynamic mode?
If you upgrade, do it for the size, not picture quality. Your four-year-old TV isn't far off in terms of picture quality (unless you go for the H7150, in which case you will get slightly better uniformity and less reflection). We never use Dynamic Mode because it adds more processing to the picture, which is not what we want, as we try to get an accurate picture.
I am experiencing some cloudy, gray banding (vertical lines) while watching hockey. I got the un50h6350 at a great price and can't find anything better in this price range. Seems like I got the "WH02" panel, which indicates it's a Samsung panel. Would it be worth the hassle to exchange for a different panel?
Every LED TV has a little bit of DSE/banding problem - even the high-end ones. It depends on how bad your set is, but exchanging it for another one will probably have the same result. Send us a picture by email and we will tell you if it is worse than average.
Eco Sensor, Dynamic Contrast, Motion Lighting, etc. are all tuned OFF on our brand new 40" 6350 TV set to Std. Picture. Yet, to our dismay, the display (with Blu-Ray HDMI sourced material) still AUTO-DIMS during dark scenes and rolling credits. This system wide "Global-CE-Dimming" is driving me crazy. Is there any way to turn this feature OFF permanently in the Service Mode, or is the boosting of the brightness level beyond 53 the only go-around known? Thanks for your generosity and great YT Channel! (BTW.. Samsung CS is a joke... totally worthless information.)
You either have to use Movie mode, PC label or do the brightness workaround. Hopefully Samsung adds the option to directly control that 'feature' in the future. Very few people like it.
I have found a problem with this set. If I am using PC mode and change the ATI catalyst driver (using a PC with a MSI graphics card) to ycbcr pixel format, the display will turn on with a pink hue. Powering it off/on or cycling the inputs clears the condition temporarily. Latest firmware on the display and ATI graphics card driver in use. If I put it in RGB pixel format the problem goes away, but leaves the screen way over-saturated with black levels that are much too dark.
This appears to be a problem with the set itself and the HDMI handshake between it and the computer. I tried another cable, and also tried turning off CEC on the set. Nothing helps. For now I'm running it in Movie mode instead of PC.
Thanks for pointing out this issue. I also reproduced this bug on the UN40H5500. The ycbcr format is really the issue here under PC mode.
What are your recommended settings for gaming? It seems like these calibrations are catered more towards movie watching. Not really seeing the benefits of low brightness and Warm 2 for games.
You can change 'Backlight' to your personal luminosity preference. As for the color temperature, it depends on the game and the settings to which the developers' monitors were calibrated. A lot of studios don't really calibrate/care about colors, so there is no universal answer to that one.
I am considering the H6350. I have Comcast with a Motorola DCH3416 DVR box. Can the standard remote included with this TV be programmed to do everything I need, such as viewing the Comcast channel guide, scrolling, accessing OnDemand, recording/playing DVR, etc?
I just bought the UN60-H6350. I will be using this TV primarily for Xbox One. I stream content and watch OTA on my Xbox One 75% of the time, and play games on it 25% of the time. Will I still get great picture quality if I just leave it in PC mode all of the time using your settings above? I also watch sports occasionally (mostly college football and basketball) through my Xbox One. I'm trying to avoid having to change settings every time I'm switching between movies, games, and sports. Thanks in advance for your help and keep up the great work on the site!
Yes, you'll get good picture quality with those settings for all of your uses. There are some settings that might be nice to have for various circumstances (for example, Digital Clean View and MPEG Noise Filter are good for getting rid of compression artifacts in streaming media), but on the whole the convenience of not having to change settings will outweigh those minor benefits. You'll want PC mode for the low input lag when you are gaming, and the rest of the settings will get you great picture quality, so just stick with them.
Really appreciate the help you provide. I have an HL0S6187W. The picture was really dark, so I bought a new Samsung lamp and it worked well. However, picture remains on Dynamic setting and after we adjust contrast to @80, it works for about 10 minutes, then goes back to dynamic setting in which the contrast is 45. Will not hold new setting. What are we doing wrong?
Samsung's website suggests that this is likely because your TV is in Shop/Store Demo Mode, which is a specific function that returns settings to defaults after a short amount of time. You can find two guides here that offer different solutions for getting your TV out of Shop/Demo mode.
How do I get into the settings to change it to PC mode as you suggested at the top of the page? I went to "general settings" and video game mode was unavailable. Did not see an option for PC mode. I mostly watch movies and would love to watch movies with less light to dark contrast issues. I have a Samsung 50uh6350 purchased at Best Buy.Thanks!!
The PC mode option isn't in the same menu as some of the other settings. To find it, press the 'Source' button on your remote, then move the selector onto the input you want to change. Press the 'Tools' button, select 'Edit Name,' and then choose PC.
Thanks for your web site. Your review of the Samsung UN65H6350 help convince me to buy the set and I'm very happy with it. Just one question: Are you sure the Sharpness setting of 50 is neutral? I've read on AVS Forums that 20 is neutral, and apparently this was confirmed by a Samsung Rep. How do I know which is correct?
50 is a neutral setting in PC mode only. Outside of PC mode, a neutral setting is 0. We arrived at these numbers through testing not only this TV, but all the Samsung TVs we reviewed last year. Those numbers were consistent across the board.
I purchased a Samsung H6350. It's used mainly for gaming on the PS4. Should I set it to GAME or PC for best performance. Thank You
There is no big difference between the two modes but PC might give you a crisper picture since it enables Chroma 4:4:4. You will have less options to play with from the TV 'Picture' menu though since it will grey out more options. Both modes have an identical input lag of 44.1 ms.
The look of PC mode is million times better than the horrible post processing jagged look. I understand the TV can change to PC mode for the HDMI inputs, but how the heck can I change regular TV broadcast to look exactly like PC Mode without all the ugly processing and make it look good like the PC mode? For TV source, there is no option to set it to PC Mode.
Unfortunately we are unable to try the settings on the Samsung H6350 at the moment, but to try to remove as much processing as possible turn 'Dynamic Contrast' off. Also turn off 'Black Tone', 'Digital Clean View', 'MPEG Noise Filter' and 'Auto Motion Plus'. It won't be the same as PC Mode, but is as close as it is possible to get.