The input lag was lower when the input type was set to PC on the Samsung HU8550, but it was still high. Setting to PC also helps to create a more natural picture, because it disables most of the software-side processing of the picture.
The default settings were good in the Standard picture mode. Don't forget to use the backlight setting instead of the brightness to adjust the luminosity of the screen. Also, if you want complete control over luminosity, you need to disable the ECO feature under the System tab.
In the advanced settings menu, you don't have much choice, because all the options are grayed out due to the input type being set to PC.
As for the white balance, it was almost perfect by default, but we had to lower the green on the bright side a bit.
As with most Samsung LED TVs, the Warm2 color tone was the closest to the D6500 standard. For those wondering about what the Smart LED feature does, it is the local dimming function. However, because this LED is edge lit (LEDs only on the sides of the TV), this isn't very effective, so we prefer it off (otherwise, it reduces the brightness of large portions of the TV, regardless of whether something is displayed there).
Questions & Answers
12 ANSWERED QUESTIONS
How do I set the input type of the Samsung HU8550
I can't seem to find it in any of the menus.
We show you how mid-way through our video of the H6350
. Basically, press the input button, highlight your input, press enter for a few seconds, select Edit Name, and then select PC from the list.
Black Friday pricing has the HU8550
55" for $899 at Best Buy and the H6350
55" at Amazon for $798. Is it worth the extra $100 to buy the HU8550?
If the price difference is that small, yes, go for it.
Do you think a firmware update will fix or maybe already has fixed the input lag issue? Love this TV, but I'm worried about gaming.
Maybe. We don't have ours anymore though, so we can't test it again.
Thank you very much for answering my previous questions so quickly regarding PC mode and HDMI 4 arc, but if you do not mind I have one more.
Do you think that regular standard mode would work for my Blu-ray player and for the satellite receiver if I just copy your settings from PC mode? The only big difference that I can see is that I would have to keep sharpness on 0 and that would be the same as PC mode on 50.
Also, do you think that it would be OK to set digital clean setting to "auto" just for watching the satellite channels?
Once again, thanks very much for helping out. You guys are the best :)
Using our settings for PC mode will be fine, but you should use Movie mode, not Standard. Standard has lots of processing enabled by default, and Movie has less. You will also need to set the sharpness to zero. Using the digital clean view feature could be a good idea for cleaning up the picture you get from your satellite, so yes, it would be okay to enable that.
How can setting the label on HDMI to "PC" change anything? Isn't that just a label feature? Also, how can you possibly recommend having Sharpness set at 50? That only introduces remarkably obvious edge enhancement artifacts.
Labeling the input as 'PC' tells the TV that it should shut off processing features and decrease input lag as much as possible, which is better for using the TV as a screen for a PC. That's why there is a limited selection of label options instead of a space for entering a name - each option has a specific function.
In PC mode, a Sharpness setting of 50 means that no Sharpness is being added to the picture. Outside of PC mode, Sharpness should be set to 0.
All of my devices are connected to a Pioneer Elite receiver, and then only one HDMI to the TV (HDMI 4, which is ARC). My problem is that when I set that input to PC mode, Apple TV and Roku will play with that setting just fine, but as soon as I switch to my Oppo Blu-ray player or the satellite TV box, my settings will automatically switch to regular movie mode. Please help. Again, all devices are using the same HDMI 4 input.
If your TV is automatically switching to Movie mode, it just means those devices do not support it, likely because they do not output RGB color. It's nothing to worry about, though, as the devices will all work fine outside of PC mode.
I purchased the QS04 version of the 8550 in December. The crosstalk on my particular set is so horrible that you can't watch any 3D content. It's been serviced by two authorized service centers with no improvement. Which model did you review? I'm guessing TS01 or TS02.
We've heard similar complaints from someone who purchased a 65" HU8550
. Their panel was a TS02, though, so this problem isn't related to the panel. We reviewed the TS01 and did not have this issue.
You guys are really helpful, I have to admit. So far I have been following your advice and I cannot be happier with results that I'm getting.
But is there any way that you guys can suggest the best settings for 3D picture?
I think that this is a great feature to have because it works so well, and I'm really disappointed that more people are not talking about it. So anyway, if you can help us with that setting, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
You won't need to make any adjustments. The TV will automatically increase the backlight when it is displaying 3D, which will help compensate for the loss of luminosity you get by wearing the glasses.
What is the safest and approved way to clean HU8550
Samsung. Best buy sold me monster cleaner swearing it was safe but I think my tv has more glare now.
You can get rid of most things with just a dry paper towel and a little bit of patience.
We have an 8550 65" QS04. Our "optimum" seating positions are about 25 degrees to the left AND right of center. Can we calibrate for best picture at those angles and not worry too much about how it is directly in front of the set? Or is that a totally ludicrous idea?
Unfortunately, there's really no way to change settings to compensate for the viewing angle.
Samsung 65HU8550 Hello, A reader commented that you had written elsewhere regarding this TV's HDMI 2.0 and HDCP connections, that it: "... has HDCP 2.2 chips that aren't full bandwidth, which is holding HDMI 2.0 back." I couldn't find what you wrote after much looking. What did you mean? Does this un-futureproof the TV and is this a reason not to buy it? Are all 4 HDMI inputs 2/2a and HDCP 2.2? Does this model come with a mini-box or connect box and could these chips be updated by replacing the box if necessary? I have already bought a TV that is 1.3 and mostly useless, so I am hypervigilant now. If all four HDMI inputs are not 2.0 or 2.0a HDCP2.2 I will have to look for a different model. Is there one you might suggest in the same price range? Thanks.
It means it doesn't support a bandwidth of 18Gbps, so it doesn't support 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4. For normal content, that doesn't matter though, but it could be a limitation once UHD Blu-rays are released next year (they will be 4k @ 24hz @ 4:2:0, but with a bigger color depth, so it requires a higher bandwidth than normal). Note that this TV should be upgradable via the OneConnect box, so it does offer some upgradeability.
Thank you in advance this resource has been great. I have followed the steps provided but am having one issue which is the HDMI Black Level being greyed out and defaulted to Normal - so I can't change to low as recommended. I have a feeling it could be due to me having a newer software version. Otherwise I am also noticing different descriptions on the TV. Model code=UN60HU8550FXZA Version No.=HS01 Model=UN60HU8550F Type No.=UN60HU8550
. Confusing, will having HDMI Black Level as "Normal" make a noticeable difference (which, obviously I'm not viewing critically as an expert)? Any other advice for settings would be appreciated, seems everywhere I look Cnet etc there is 1 thing not possible.
Depending on your HDMI input, this is probably not an issue. HDMI black level should be set to 'Normal' if it is connected to a PC, or 'Low' for most other sources (eg. Blu-rays, DVDs, game consoles). When the TV detects the 'Normal' range it will prevent you from changing it. We recommend labelling the input to 'PC' to disable most of the image processing, for the most accurate result. Adjust the 'Backlight' to your preference, as it doesn't change the picture quality. Adjust 'Color Tone' to your preference, we prefer 'Warm2' but you may prefer a cooler setting.
We are not taking any more questions for this product because we no longer have it in our lab.