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iRobot Roomba 671

iRobot Roomba 671: Discussion

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    Can you use 165hz with Dolby atmos on PC? I have the S95D and I couldn’t find a solution to use 144hz with Dolby atmos, windows didn’t let me activate Dolby atmos with 144hz, so for me losing Dolby atmos doesn’t worth, does the G5 have the same problem?

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    Can you use 4k 144hz with Dolby atmos on PC? I have the S95D and I couldn’t find a solution to use 144hz with Dolby atmos, windows didn’t let me activate Dolby atmos with 144hz

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    I was taking a look at the score of Lighting Zone Precision of both 75 and 65 U8N and comparing the image from both TVs, the 65 has a lot more contrast but the 75 image from Lighting Zone Precision looks much better then the 65 inch, so why is that? In person they look exactly the same as the picture taken on those tests?

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    I am a little confused about the matte finish screen, I saw some people saying that even on a completely dark room you can see problems with the matte finish, they said that you loose depth on the picture and have a little blooming too, so even in a dark room the tv doesn’t get that perfect blacks like LG OLEDs? also, my room is totally dark but my walls are white, so even the brightness of the TV itself could bounce back from the white wall to the TV, this wouldn’t raise my contrast even on a dark room?

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    Since the 85 inch DU8000 cost less then an OLED TV, can RTINGS at least list this TV so we can vote for a chance to get this tv reviewed?

    I was taking a look at this TV in a local store near by me and the 85 inch certainly didnt feel like only 240 nits

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    Does anyone know if the 85 inch support g-sync? if the TV supports VRR does this means that will support g-sync too?

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    Since you’ll be controlling the lights in the room, a neutral gain screen should do the trick! of course if the walls are a pearly, reflective white then you might want to opt for the 0.8 gain screen instead to boost the contrast a bit. but if your walls closest to the screen are a mid-gray, the 1.0 screen should look pretty great! just make sure to check your room size since 150" requires quite a bit of distance between the projector and the screen. Good luck!

    Thanks for all the help, I used the calculator on central projector and I should be fine with the distance, I will take a look into painting maybe half of the walls on mid-gray or if it exist a especial tint to apply on the wall that if i leave it white doesnt hurt the contrast.

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    Thanks, you are helping a lot, I am setting up a home theater with controlled lights.

    Would you recommend a screen with 0.8 high contrast gain with the epson 3800 instead of a white 1.0 gain screen? I will use a 150 inch screen, since it is really a bright projector it seems a good idea to pair it with 0.8 gain.

    My room will have zero light but my walls are not complete black, the wall where the screen will be is completed black, cealling and other walls are white color and it has a dark wood like color on the floor, do you think white is too bad? should I paint with gray? I didnt want to leave completed black on all walls, so medium or light gray it would be my preference, but if ruins to much my contrast i will considering painting with medium gray or even completed black, but I would like to leave it white and black only where the screen is at.

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    Hey Paolo! Our contrast measurements are taken using an Illuminance meter, so we’re not measuring what is being reflected off of the screen. But for any measurements we take using a colorimeter, we are using a neutral gain screen. As far as what your contrast would be, it’s not only dependant on the screen you’re uising, but also the conditions of your room. We measured a difference in contrast even just by changing what clothes we were wearing to take the measurements! (you can read our launch article for more details) As for your other questions, this projector is using a 0.47" Texas Instruments DLP chip which has a native resolution of 1920x1080 but uses a 4x pixel shift to acheive a 4k resolution. So it is not a “true” 4k projector, though the sharpness is very good. Comparing contrast with tv’s is more challenging. Even budget Tv’s will have better native contrast than projectors, but a lot of projectors still deliver a good contrast experience, which is why our scoring for contrast on projectors is very different than on TV’s. We are currently working on improving our current contrast testing on projectors to measure contrast using some of the contrast enhancing features available on some projectors. But as fat as native contrast goes, this is one of the better ones we’ve tested so far! So if you’re in the market for a projector, this one does offer good contrast. Hope that helps! Cheers

    Thanks a lot for the help, I am new to projectors so I am a little lost, but I am really considering the optoma UHZ50 or the Epson 3800.

    It seems that the UHZ50 is a better buy mostly because it is laser, but, if I understood correctly, the Epson 3800 gives me more freedom when positioning the projector in the room, since the lens shift of the Epson seems a lot better then the UHZ50.

    Regarding contrast, I was worried that it would look so washed out and blacks looking supper gray with just 277:1, but from the score that you guys gave it, it seems not so bad in person? compared to a entry level TV with VA panel, the projector is about the same or much worse? and against a entry level IPS Panel TV, the UHZ50 is better or worse in person regarding contrast?

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    the contrast of projectors is tested in a white 1.0 gain screen? if i have a silver screen with 1.3 gain, it means that my contrast is 30% higher? in this uhz50 exemple it would be 1.3x277?

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    In central projector website they say that this projector is true 4K, here it says that is Pixel Shift 4k, so which is right? also, comparing contrast with tvs, a tv with 4000:1 native contrast can be directly compared to 277:1 of this projector? so a entry level tv already has a contrast almost 15 times better?

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    Can i use Expression Enhancer with dolby vision content? i know that Dynamic Tone Mapping isnt available with Dolby vision content, but can i use Expression Enhancer with dolby vision to make the image brighter? I have a C9 and i use cinema mode to watch dolby vision content, but some times i wish i could make the image a little more brighter.

    Edited 1 year ago: add information
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    is it possible to do 8k 120hz 4:2:0?

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    What you see in the contrast photo is not actually a ‘blue tint’. In the QN90C photo you actually see more of the cave than on the QN85C; what you perceive as being a more pleasant image on the QN85C is actually an image with a very small amount of black crush. Look at the walls of the cave on the QN85C; you can’t see them. If you take a TV with even better contrast than the QN90C, like the Samsung S95C OLED (which has perfect blacks and infinite contrast), you see even more of the cave, and it gives you a better perspective of how the cave actually looks.

    Now that you mentioned, I was comparing the contrast image from the C3, G3, S95C and S90C, and Samsung certainly looks difference, so it has nothing to do with the contrast itself, thanks for your help.

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    Thanks a lot for the reply, so the blue tint that i can see is just because is too bright? is it visible in person or only because of the camera?

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    Try it! Like I remember when I was playing Assassin’s Creed Origins I didn’t like how HGiG looked, as it made the desert towns look dimmer. But now the way I look at it is more like, maybe those towns aren’t supposed to look like a sun just dropped in the middle of them. The towns look less bright but more realistic, but when it’s night all of a sudden the moon looks so much brighter than the rest of the scene, you’re like woah, okay I get it. But really in the end, it’s all about making these TVs look like we want them to; there’s nothing wrong with just preferring an overall brighter image. Up to you!

    Yes i totally agree with you, everybody says that you should use Dolby Vision Cinema mode, well it really creates a more impactfull HDR when something really bright shows on the TV, but it really worth having the tv a lot dimmer all the time to benefit from the very few scenes? i dont think so, i generally use Dolby Vision Cinema Home especially in some very dark movies like Hellraiser

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    On Windows 11 they now have the Windows HDR Calibration app, which follows HGiG recommendations for the best possible HDR experience. The app is not compatible with Windows 10 however. For HGiG, I feel you when you talk about brightness. Honestly before working for RTINGS I would set my LG C2’s Dynamic Tone Mapping setting to ‘On’. I didn’t like HGiG (although I understood that it was more accurate) as it did, indeed, make the entire screen look darker and I didn’t really see the point of that. But when I started working for RTINGS I was talking to a few of our testers, and I expressed how I thought Dynamic Tone Mapping to On looked way better, but none of them agreed with my statement, which got me curious. I figure some of them would be like “Yeah it looks better with DTM ‘On’ but it’s less accurate” but they were more like “No it doesn’t look better with DTM ‘On’”. So I looked into it a bit more, played with it, and at one point I understood. When I did the switch from ‘On’ to ‘HGiG’ I was playing Spider-Man Remastered on the PS5. On an OLED, one of the advantages of the screen is that it can display perfect blacks next to very bright highlights, right? But when you have DTM set to ‘On’, it brightens up the entire image, but it doesn’t raise the overall peak brightness of the TV; it just displays everything brighter than it should. Now this makes all scenes a bit more vibrant, it’s like a nice little brightness boost on everything, but it comes at a big drawback; dark scenes are not as dark as they should be, and there’s less difference between the brightest highlights and other parts of the scene, since everything is brighter. I saw the difference in Spider-Man during one of the stealth sequences; with DTM on, the place I was sneaking around looked rather bright even though it was supposed to be a dark lab in which Spider-Man had ample room to stealth around in the shadows. But with DTM set to ‘HGiG’, the dark lab looked… well, dark. It felt like it was supposed to look. But most importantly, my second shocker was when I got in a fight. I was fighting one of the electricity guys who shock you (I mean, that’s what electricity does I guess! haha). And I had been playing the game for about 20 hours with DTM ‘On’ at this point, so I’d been in quite a few fights with these guys. But here in HGiG, when one of them shocked me with his blue electricity, I was stunned: the electricity looked SO bright next to the rest of the scene. Like it felt like I was in a damp, dark lab, getting into a fight with electricity guys who were zapping me with extremely bright flashes of electricity. I never went back to DTM ‘On’ after that. Ultimately it’s your TV and you set it to how you like it; I certainly understand the appeal of DTM ‘On’. And I have a C2, which is a bit brighter than the C9 (but really not by that much), so maybe that’s enough to warrant not using DTM ‘On’. But try it with some games; I’m sure that at one point you’ll notice the difference in impact between the brightest highlights and the rest of a dark scene with DTM to ‘HGiG’ versus it being ‘On’. If you do switch to HGiG however remember to configure it correctly in your PS5 (and on your PC); you need to use the HDR config tool with the TV set to HGiG (or Off), and push the slider until the image just disappears. That said, hey, I like Dynamic Contrast even though it screws with color accuracy, so if you just prefer DTM ‘On’, I feel you; sometimes for testing purposes I switch it ‘On’ and I’m always like “wow, the scene does pop eh? Oh well” before putting it back to HGiG hahaha. Anyhow sorry for the long answer, but I hope this helped you! And maybe entertained you a little bit with my Spider-Man stories!

    Thanks a lot for sharing all that experience, i didnt know that windows 11 have that feature, i will try to use this feature.

    About dynamic contrast, i was a super fan of it, makes everthing even more brighter, but after years using it i started to not like it, it sure makes things pop more, it makes things even more sharper some times too, but it makes dark things even more darker and somewhat forced image, not natural, after disabling and enabling it for months i cant stand dynamic contrast anymore, people faces are really unnatural and dark details are very hard to see, especially with movies, i was watching the new Hellraiser and couldnt see anything with dynamic contrast on high.

    And years ago, i was a super fan of vivid or dynamic mode too, even used to play games on it, now i cant stand watching that cold color temperature, well with time i am getting a more refined tast regarding image quality and precision, so maybe after some time i think HGiG is way better than Dynamic tone Map ON hahaha.

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    Thanks for the answers, i didnt notice any issues with input lag on my c9, and i game a lot on PC, to my knowledge PC windows HDR doesnt use HGIG right? shouldn’t you have a ps5 or xbox and calibrate the HDR in the system configuration to take advantage of HGIG?

    I also have a ps5 and play some few games on it, after calibration in PS5 system menu with HGIG on, I think it took way too much of the C9 HDR brightness

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    Hi! Honestly with most TVs the answer to this is always going to be no, although some TVs are better than others. The C3’s input lag is not ‘terrible’ outside of Game Mode, in the sense that games won’t be unplayable and we’ve certainly seen way worse numbers than that, but the lag will be very noticeable during gameplay. Thankfully the TV looks great in Game Mode; contrast and dark details are preserved super well without impacting accuracy. It’s a bit dimmer in HDR, but you won’t notice it when compared to when you’re watching the TV outside of Game Mode. I have an LG C2 and I run all my games in Game Mode, and it looks truly fantastic. Hope this helps!

    Thanks for the reply, Currently I have a C9 and I use Cinema mode with ALLM on, I thought that the C3 would behavior the same way, the input lag is like on game mode but you can use what ever mode you want with ALLM, and I agree with you, LG OLED are awesome, I just want to update to get a bigger screen because to me the C9 are already perfect.

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    thanks

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    same bug on the C9 tho… at least on my set. How about yours? HDR on xbox one x with VRR activated.

    i dont have Xbox one X, on my ps4 pro and my PC with gtx 1070 ti, the blacks are perfect, but with this set i dont have VRR to test if blacks are perfect too, i heard that the CX have problens with true blacks even without VRR but i dont know if this is true

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    The only bad thing about CX is that they dropped DTS support via eARC, aside from that I think the CX is more future proof, where I leave the CX is costing 50% more then the C9, so I have bought the C9. Also concerning true black, some have said the black in HDR in the CX is gray, but that a firmware ir comming to fix this. If where you leave the CX is costing like 25% more over the C9, I wouldn’t waste my money getting the CX over the C9.

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    Thanks for the replies guys, I bought the C9 but I have the GTX 1070 Ti, so I don’t have G-Sync, when nvidia release the 3080 I will get one and see if I have problems, I only play on PC and PS4, for now the two work flawless here, and PCM 5.1 via eARC is working too.

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    It should be the same. Minor number differences like that are usually just a regional variant. Sometimes they have slightly different inputs, or even a slightly different UI, but they should perform the same.

    Thanks Adam, in the end I have bought the C9 55” it is not that big but it will be a lot better

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    There are so much videos on the internet about how to use an OLED correctly. And you get used to it with the time, it is not really that much hassle. This is my first OLED, and I’m not panicking at all. But for special work I still will use a cheap LCD display (like office work). If you’re also one of those “dark room players” the OLED and this incredible blacks will blow you away! And I say it again, this is my first OLED, so I’m not any kind of OLED fanboy. Objectively spoken these LG displays (no matter which variant) are probably the best you can get if it comes to native image quality.

    Yes, I already saw some videos, and I will use it more for games and movies, as a PC monitor I will not use that much, I will connect my pc to the OLED tv, but it is more for playing games and watching movies then using it as a Desktop.

    By the way I just bought the C9 55” in the Internet, hope it arrives soon, I am really anxious to see those gorgeous black levels, outstanding HDR and motion blur!!

    I am using a Samsung ju6500 for almost 5 years now, so I think it will be a big step in image quality compare to the OLED, also I am buying another tv just because my Samsung is dying.

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    If you don’t ruin the OLED by doing office work ten hrs a day, I would now recommend an OLED instead of QLED. But my advice is rather helpful as I could only test the (for gaming) weak Q60R 49". There are better QLEDs around than this. I don’t need much brightness (using mostly dark rooms) and therefore the most discussed negative point of OLED (weak brightness) is not that important to me. If you plan to play in daylight flooded rooms, the OLED may be to weak with it’s brightness. Anayway, I cannot say it has weak brightness as I never used more than 50% brightness, at night also 20-30% brightness setting seems enough depending on the content.

    Your advice is much helpful, because i was planning on getting the Q70T that has the same performance that the Q60R, and from what you said, the image and motion are far superior on the OLED when compared with the Q60R, so i figure that it is best buying the 55" OLED then having more 10" of screen and having image and motion much worse, and i play in a pitch black room, so the OLED will shine a lot :D.

    Others QLED like Q80 and Q90 i dont have interest, because it will be expensive too and i would have to buy 55" anyway, so 55" OLED vs 55" QLED i will definilly get the OLED

    Also, i think burn in will not be a problem to me.

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    Hello, I am not an TV expert but a gamer for 25 years and if I I compare the CX48 to a 49" Q60R QLED the QLED doesn’t have a single chance when it comes to image quality. Also lag and blur is much better. If you are unsure about OLED you should think about a high class QLED (like Q80 or Q90). The other QLEDs are obviously lacking a lot of functions (e.g. no dimming, no VRR etc., poor angles…). It’s NOT a bad TV at all (good brightness, nice contrast, good blacks for VA panel) and I gave it to my mother as TV only. She’ll be impressed! For black room gaming it’s not that good or if you’re hardcore FPS gamer. Remember: 49" and 43" QLEDs do have only 60Hz panels. If you want a 120Hz QLED you will have to choose at least a 55" variant in order to get a fast display and that is imho too big for a desk.

    Thanks for the reply, i never have seeing the CX or C9 with my on eyes but i figure that it must be much better then the QLED, but neverless i am in the famous indecision about buying a 55"OLED or 65 QLED, since i can pay the same money on Q70T 65"or C9 55", but after what you have sayed, i will go with the C9 55", it is already pretty big and image quality and motion will be much better, thanks for the advice.

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    I have it connected to the HW-Q800T soundbar and it cannot do 5.1 or 7.1 PCM via eARC. It’s hard to know if this is a soundbar or TV issue (or both), but I suspect the TV, since the soundbar can play 5.1 via direct HDMI connection. I’m hoping that there will be a future update to fix this, similar to the LG C9/CX recent fix.

    Thanks for the reply, really sad that it cannot do 5.1 PCM via eARC

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    Do you guys have problem it the black level with g-sync too?

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    Safe bet. I’m pretty disappointed in their support, so far, and would recommend checking out another brand. The first 2 agents I worked with just stopped replying to me (first on their forums, then on an actual case). Overall, it’s been a pretty big hassle trying to get help from them….

    This is very disappointing, i expected more of sony, i guess i will buy a lg oled, it is much more expensive then the x900f but at least from what i heard is a excellent tv and i will not have issues with DV with it.

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    I have an ongoing case with Sony support on this issue. They’ve more-or-less acknowledged this fact and have escalated to their level 2 team for guidance. I went through all of their initial troubleshooting steps, without success:

    • changing my picture mode to Dolby Vision (Bright) (this setting doesn’t exist)
    • adjusting the picture to their recommended settings
    • updating the android os
    • updating the firmware
    • factory reset (this one particularly sucked) I’m not sure why someone thought this was a good idea, as it basically renders every Netflix original series from 2019 on unwatchable during the daytime. Most other folks on the Sony forums were very cynical about them launching a fix–even though the TV is only a year old. I’m just glad I bought Geek Squad protection, should they not be able to help. My case number is #06054942, if you want to double our efforts in finding a resolution :)

    Thanks for the reply, I was thinking about buying this tv, but now I will not buying it anymore. ;)

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    Thanks Adam, I am looking to buy a Budget 75 inch tv, and I will use it in a dark room, I was looking to Samsung tu8000 but it doesn’t support WCG and HDR peak brightness is awful, if the Sony x800h turns out to be VA with close peak brightness and WCG support like the IPS model it will be much better than the Samsung for me. Also here in Brazil Sony tvs names are different, the Sony x800h name here is x805h, but that shouldn’t be a problem right? I think it will have the same picture quality.

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    if the 75 model is truly VA, aside from contrast and angle viewing, Peak Brightness wont change too? after all it is another type of panel

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