The following are the calibration settings we used to review the LG 55" B7 (OLED55B7A), and these should also be good for the 65" variant (OLED65B7A). These settings work well with everything except for gaming which requires a few extra changes, listed below.
First, we turn off the 'Energy Saving' since we do not want to screen brightness to change depending on the room lighting.
In the 'Aspect Ratio Settings' tab, we selected the 'Original' 'Aspect Ratio' with the 'Just Scan' option set to 'On' so that our HDMI input would be automatically matched to the screen without needing to change the 'overscan' setting from the source output setting.
We turn off the 'Eye Comfort Mode' since we do not want the TV to change the color temperature automatically depending on the content.
We then selected the 'IFS Expert (Dark Room)' picture mode since it was the picture mode that was the closest to our calibration goal.
For calibration purposes, we adjusted 'OLED LIGHT' to 17 to reach our desired luminance of 100 cd/m². You should adjust it to match your room environment. For a brighter room, this will need to be increased. Not that this does not affect the colors, only the luminance of the display. We set the 'Contrast' to 100, 'Brightness' to 50, its default values.
We adjusted both the 'H Sharpness' and the 'V Sharpness' to 0 because we did not want to add any sharpening. 'Color' was left to 50 and 'Tint' to 0, both their default values.
In the 'Expert Controls' settings page, we turned off 'Dynamic contrast', 'Super Resolution', 'Edge Enhancer' and 'Color Filter'. We set the 'Color Gamut' to 'Auto' since when set to 'Auto' The TV will change the 'Color Gamut' automatically to match the source.
We also set the 'Gamma' to 2.2 as it helped to reach our calibration goal, but if you find that the blacks are crushed in some video content, you can use a lower gamma setting or if you find that the TV is clipping in the white (losing detail in the white regions), you can use a higher gamma setting.
In the 'White Balance' settings, we selected the 'Warm2' from the 'Color Temperature' settings since it was the 'Color Temperature' the closest to our calibration goal. Again, if you find the color to be too red or yellowish, you can use a different color temperature
In the 'Picture Options' menu, we turned off 'Noise Reduction' and 'MPEG Noise Reduction', but you can turn on these features a different level if you are watching older low-resolution content, as it may help reduce visual noise and compression artifacts. We set the 'Black Level' to 'Low' to match our source 'Output Dynamic Range'. If you are not sure that the setting is correct, when incorrect, blacks will look grayish instead of really deep blacks. 'Motion Eye Care' was turned off since we did not want the TV to change the brightness of the TV automatically depending on the displayed scene. For the 'Real Cinema' and 'TruMotion' settings, these relate to the 24p playback and motion interpolation you can read here to know more about those options.
First thing to do is to turn on 'HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color' for the HDMI port where you intend to connect your HDR UHD Blu-ray players (or video games console if you are using it as a Blu-ray player), as some external device may not detect that the TV can support the full HDMI bandwidth necessary for HDR content.
When the TV detects HDR content, it will give you 5 'HDR Picture Mode' options. For movies, the 'Cinema' and 'technicolor Expert' picture mode are the best option available since it will give you more control of the settings, and they both have almost the same accuracy.
The 2017 LG OLED TVs now support HDR with 'Active HDR', which is similar to HDR10+ or HDR10 with dynamic metadata. This feature analyses the content frame by frame in real time to adjust the HDR tone mapping curve. This has the advantage of displaying each scene with an optimized HDR effect, as opposed to the HDR with a static metadata, where all the movie was using the same tone mapping curve, resulting in some scene sometimes being too dark or too bright or simply not exposed correctly to have the best possible HDR effect.
To activate this feature on the B7A, you need to go in the 'Expert control' tab. In the 'Expert Control' tab, you will need to set the 'Dynamic Contrast' to 'Low'. The low setting turn on the 'Active HDR without the 'Contrast Enhancement. We usually don't like to add any unnecessary image processing and this is why we are proposing to use the 'Low' setting here, as the 'Contrast Enhancement' would modify the content in a way that was not intended by the content creator. If you want to test this extra feature, then the 'Medium' setting set the 'Contrast Enhancement' to Low and the 'High' to 'High'.
Note that 'Active HDR' does not work when the TV is in 'Game' 'HDR Picture Mode' or in 'PC' Mode, so we recommend setting the 'Dynamic Contrast' 'Off' under those conditions.
SDR Gaming settings
To get the best input lag possible when gaming, you need to set the 'Picture Mode' to 'Game'.
Once the 'Game' picture mode is selected, some options won't be available in the setting pages since the 'Game' picture mode disables most of the image processing to give better input lag. Under game mode, the color temperature setting is now a slider giving you a different control from colder to warmer, and you can adjust to your liking. The gamma selection is also a bit different, giving you the option from 'Low' to 'High2'. In both cases, adjust these to your preference. For the rest of the available settings, you can follow our general settings.
HDR Gaming settings
For HDR gaming, simply turn on 'HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color' for the HDMI port where you intend to connect your video game console or PC and select the 'Game' 'HDR picture Mode' to have the best input lag possible. Note that when in game mode, the color temperature control is not exactly the same as in other picture modes. We found that the setting 'W45' was the closest to our desired target of 6500K color temperature, but you can adjust it to your liking.
If you want to activate the Chroma subsampling (4:4:4) on the LG B7A, you need to set the 'Input Label' to 'PC' for the HDMI port where your device is connected. This setting is available via the 'Input' menu.
From the main 'Picture settings' page, there are the 'OLED Panel Settings'. Inside there is the 'Pixel Refresher' function and the 'Screen Shift' settings. 'Pixel Refresher' is the function that will clear any image retention or other screen issues that can happen when the TV is left turn on for a long period of time. This function needs at least one hour to run and will only start once the TV is turned off. This usually takes care of any image retention. The 'Screen Shift' is a feature that will slightly move the screen at regular intervals to prevent image retention. We recommend to turn on this feature.
The following are the results of the white balance and colorspace
calibration on our unit. They are provided for reference, and should not be
copied as the calibration values vary per individual unit even for the same
model and same size as the TV we reviewed due to manufacturing tolerances. If
you want to try them you will need to enter all values shown, as all of them
are active at the same time.
If you end up with worse picture quality, simply reset them to the default
Questions & Answers
31 ANSWERED QUESTIONS
Does active HDR work in HDR game mode?
Hi and thanks for contacting us. No, active HDR does not work in 'Game' 'HDR Picture Mode' and neither in 'PC Mode'. We will update the setting page to mention it to make it more clear.
I bought a LG OLED 65" B7 last Thanksgiving. I find that when a football game replay comes on and they are zoomed in on a player I see a bunch of blocks in the motion. How can I minimize/reduce that? It is much worse than in my 6-7 year old Samsung 52" LED
This might be an artifact caused by the soap opera effect feature of the TV which is called TruMotion. It is found in the picture mode settings, and disabling it might resolve your issue. For cable or broadcast TV, we also recommend trying out the "Noise Reduction" and "MPEG Noise Reduction" features to enhance lower resolution content.
Dialing this thing in for HDR gaming on Xbox one X. HDR game mode seems very dark compared to vivid or technicolor expert. I typically much prefer vivid and the cooler temperature settings, but I really notice the input lag when off game mode. Before the TV had detected HDR content I was able to fix this with gamma adjustments but that setting is greyed out in game mode. Thank you!!
To brighten the picture in the HDR game mode, you can enable the Dynamic contrast feature. We don't usually recommend this feature for most content, but it is the best way to brighten up the image in HDR Game mode.
Is the lag difference between Game (user) mode and HDR Effect mode for video games very severe? If so is there any way to run game modes advantageous low input lag while also using hdr or is it you have to pick one or the other? Also, what are the technicolor and ifs expert dark and bright modes really for?
The 63 ms of input lag outside game mode is quite significant for some users, but more casual gamers might not have an issue with it. It's important to note that the HDR Effect picture mode is different from HDR, as it is essentially an SDR to HDR conversion mode that we rarely advise using. Game mode can indeed be used with an HDR input otherwise, so you can benefit from both an HDR picture and the low input lag of game mode.
I have an Xbox One X and I'm getting confused about dynamic contrast and how it affects picture quality and input lag in hdr game mode. How much will turning on dynamic contrast increase input lag? Is low recommended over medium or high? Finally this pc/game input mode is confusing me. Does simply renaming the input change how the TV works? Can I just leave it at 'HDMI1' or do I need to change it to 'game console'? You guys are terrific.
Dynamic contrast will not change input lag in game mode. Leave it at 'Off' unless you find the picture too dim, in which case turn it up until you achieve your desired brightness. Dynamic contrast technically hurts picture quality by warping the PQ curve, but it's also the only way to make HDR content brighter (because OLED Light is already at 100). 'PC mode' is activated by renaming the input icon to 'PC'; as far as we know that's the only input label that changes the TV's behavior. You can leave the label on 'HDMI 1', it's no different than 'Game Console'.
In your settings guide you mention needing to set the input icon to PC to access Chroma subsampling (4:4:4). I just tested it and YCbCr444 is definitely selectable and usable under the Nvidia Control Panel outside of PC mode without switching the icon to PC with "game" mode selected.
Can you explain what exactly the differences are between PC mode and non-PC mode? Is Chroma subsampling (4:4:4) something different from YCbPr444?
4:4:4 sampling can be achieved while sending an RGB signal instead of YCbPr444. The TV will accept both, but will only show a proper 4:4:4 image if the PC icon is used. Otherwise, it will not reproduce the image perfectly and it results in text looking closer to a 4:2:2 signal.
Are these settings good for a Fios DVR box? Or should I tweak something else?
They should be good. If you notice noise or grain on some channels you may want to turn on the noise reduction features, and if you want to smooth motion using the soap opera effect you can turn on TruMotion.
In Oled settings you have Oled set to 17 in dark room preset. How dark is your dark room? My apt isn't that bright as there is no direct sunlight hitting my screen or lets say we get no direct sun rays in living room. Is that considered dark?
The OLED Light setting (or backlight setting for an LCD) can be changed freely to suit your room without affecting picture quality, as it only changes the brightness. We set ours to 17 to get the screen to have 100 cd/m² brightness for our testing, but most people will find that too dim even in a dark room.
Hi- you have suggested to use cinema or technicolor expert for HDR settings. Do you also mean that if we apply the picture settings that you suggested for non-HDR content in HDR cinema or HDR technicolor expert - it will be more balanced and result in a better picture? I was a little confused because you only suggested to use cinema or technicolor expert for HDR settings but didn’t mention to apply the settings that you provided for non HDR content. Please let me know. I just want to apply the right settings and see if I like it. Thanks.
All the General Settings where applicable are also good for HDR, like turning off sharpness and noise reduction. Also be sure to set 'Dynamic Contrast' to 'Low' to activate LG's Active HDR feature. Cinema and technicolor perform the same but have different default settings, technicolor's being closest to our recommended settings.
We purchased the B7A for Xmas, and we haven't been overly impressed with the picture quality. Perhaps our expectations were too great. My biggest complaint is while watching a football game, the football would seem to ghost out during a pass. We would get some color blending, ie. a jersey matching a logo on the field and the player seemed to almost disappear, kinda like a reporter wearing green in front of a green screen. I turned off tru motion and it seemed to help. When watching the game, a close up of a player will look great but when it backs out to watch the play as it happens it looks no better than an older TV (kinda grainy). Is there a particular setting you would recommend for a football game? We are still within the date we could return it. We have looked into the Sony X930E but reviews seem to point more to the OLED being a better TV. We don't want to give up on it just yet but we are getting close.
The 'disappearing football' and other effects was due to 'Trumotion', so it's good that you disabled it. The grainy picture is likely part of the video feed from your source, and the B7 is just showing it faithfully; you can try to use the noise reduction options in the picture settings to help. We recommend the 'Expert Dark Room' picture mode for all SDR content, including sports; the sports mode really tampers with the colors and gamma curve. If all our 'General Picture Settings' are used the B7 should have great picture quality, better than the Sony X930E in all cases except in a really bright room. If you want to see the full picture quality potential of the TV, play a 4K HDR demo video on YouTube such as 'LG Rays of Light' (with the 'Cinema' picture mode).
Which mode is suggested for overall movie watching and overall gaming? With and without HDR for either.
If you will be gaming occasionally then it's probably best to leave it in 'Game' or 'HDR Game', unless you want one of the features disabled by game mode such as motion interpolation ('TruMotion'). Set the color temperature slider to W40 (or W30 if you find that too reddish), but otherwise follow our recommended settings. If you won't be gaming in HDR then set it to 'technicolor Expert'.
I recently bought a LG B7A TV and when I use the YouTube app to watch old movies, it starts then buffers then starts then buffers... It won't play smoothly. Any settings I can use to fix this?
This is likely due to your TV having a poor internet connection. Is it far away from your wireless router? If possible, using an ethernet connection will likely solve the issue. Otherwise, it is possible that your network might require an upgrade with either a Wi-fi extender or a more powerful router.
I have an Xbox One X and plan on using that for my 4K Blu-ray player. Would you suggest using the gaming mode for gaming and then switching to custom settings on the tv any time I want to watch a movie? If yes, is this any easy process to switch between the two optimization settings on the fly?I want to buy this television, but I want to make sure it will not be a hassle to change optimizations for different types of content. Thanks for the great work!
Switching picture modes is very easy and can take as little as two button presses on the B7. However, you can also simply calibrate the Game picture mode and use it all the time as there is essentially no difference in picture quality between the different settings.
I have the Apple TV 4k but I'm not getting audio on movies from Vudu, HBO Go nor Showtime, but I do hear the menu scrolling sounds and get audio from some other apps like Fox Now. I tried with a Roku Ultra and it's the same situation, so I know is not the Apple TV. What can I do to correct it? Also if I switch the audio on the Apple TV to stereo it's not a problem, seems like the issue is with Dolby sounds. I don't have soundbars or any other sound system, just plain TV speakers. Thanks.
On the TV, in the quick settings menu with the icons, turn 'Surround' 'Off' and 'Sound Out' to 'Internal TV Speakers' (not 'Internal TV Speakers + Audio System'). Then turn the Apple TV to Stereo, the TV speakers can't play anything more than stereo.
Hello, for White Balance, how do i navigate to the different White Balance pages above? I can only see the 1 White Balance setting page. Not sure how to get to all the other White Balance screen options to calibrate similar to yours above..
In the white balance options, if you switch to the 20 point method, every "IRE" setting is effectively its own page. We generally do not recommend for users to replicate our white balance and color management settings as they are different across every unit of the same model and require the usage of a dedicated tool to be accurately produced. Following our recommended settings up until that point will provide a sufficiently accurate result for most people.
I have the 65" B7A. The option to select dark room is not available when watching Netflix UHD 4k. Any reason why?
Hi and thanks for contacting us. This may be the case when watching Dolby Vision HDR movies, as the picture modes available are not the same as when viewing SDR movies, or even HDR movies that are encoded for HDR10 only. When in Dolby Vision HDR, the available picture mode that would be similar to the 'Expert mode Dark Room' would be the 'Cinema' picture mode.
On the C7 is it normal that Active HDR (setting DC on low during HDR content) seems much brighter than regular HDR content (DC off)? And do you prefer turning Active HDR on?
There are cases where 'Active HDR' makes the scene noticeably brighter, but usually not that much brighter. Our testing has shown that when 'Active HDR' makes a difference it's a difference for the better, because it makes the TV's EOTF follow the target PQ curve more closely, so the brightness of the scene gets closer to what the artist intended; for this reason we recommend leaving it on (setting 'Dynamic Contrast' to 'Low', or higher if you want normal dynamic contrast brightening). Note that in Game and PC mode there is no 'Active HDR' due to the need for low input lag, so we recommend setting 'Dynamic Contrast' to 'Off'.
What is the best setting for watching live sports on the 65" B7A? I find that the TV is a little blurry on sports as the cameras cycle through.
The blurriness might be caused by the motion interpolation feature being enabled. In your TruMotion settings, make sure that the "De-blur" slider is set to 0. If the blurriness persists, you might want to enable the "MPEG noise reduction" feature found in your picture settings which can help reduce the side effects of compression algorithms used in sports broadcasts.
Hello all! Great site and thank you for all the info. My question is regarding the color temp. They appear to have replaced the options with a slider now? Any information on how this works to get near Warm1 or 2? Thanks!
Some picture modes (cinema, the expert modes) have the Warm1, Warm2, Cold etc color temperature options, while others (cinema home, game) have the slider. For the slider modes we usually recommend W30, though on some TVs W40 is necessary to hit 6500K color temperature. On our B7A unit W45 was roughly 6500K, but this may be different for other B7A units; we recommend W40 for the B7A unless you find the picture looks too warm or orange, in which case go with W30.
Do each of the various Picture Modes retain the previous settings you had for them? I have my Cable box going through an Xbox One X and use it as my primary streaming and Blu Ray player, so I will be using this one input for most things. Ideally I could set up the Game HDR picture mode and then switch to one of the other picture modes on the fly when I am just watching video on the device. Don't want to be required to tweak all of the settings of the TV each time I do this. Is this the case?
Yes, picture settings are retained on the same input. If you change things in 'Game', switch to 'Movie' and change things, then switch back to 'Game', then 'Game' will be exactly the way you left it. However it's probably easiest to leave the TV in 'Game' mode all the time, unless there's a feature you want that is disabled by game mode, such as motion interpolation ('TruMotion'). When 'Game' mode is tweaked correctly (color temperature set to W40, or W30 if you find that too warm, etc.), 'Game' mode has reasonably similar picture quality to the movie modes like 'Cinema'. Keep in mind that the HDR picure modes are totally separate from the SDR ones, so if you only game in HDR then you can leave HDR on 'HDR Game', but set SDR to 'Expert Dark Room' for instance.
The review of LG C7 OLED was done in April, 2017 and the LG B7 was done in November, 2017.
The settings for the B7 seem to be different from the C7. I just bought a C7 and I would
like to know if the B7 settings would apply to the C7 since they are the latest review?
Basically, our TV viewing is watching cable and DVD, no gaming.
Both are equally correct, just some settings are explained more in one review or the other. We continually update the settings pages when things change (like Active HDR). OLED Light can be set to your desired brightness without hurting picture quality. The one exception is the 'technicolor Expert' picture mode, which was only added recently, but in HDR it's identical to the 'HDR Cinema' mode we used to recommend besides having different default settings (noise reduction off, etc.), and in SDR we still recommend 'Expert Dark Room'. We don't recommend people copy our detailed 'White Balance' and 'Color Management' calibration settings because they're specific to our unit and may look off with your unit. Do still set the color temperature to Warm 2 though.
Hi, I haven't bought this TV yet. How does HDR Game mode with dynamic contrast turned to high compare to the Sony A1E's HDR Game mode in terms of overall brightness and following of the EOTF curve?
If I understand correctly, the LG OLEDs try to maintain specular highlight detail up to 10000 nits even though it is only capable of around 700 nits while the Sony OLED clip at its peak brightness level and that is why some people complain about the brightness on the LG.
Does turning Dynamic Contrast to high on the LG produce a similar image to the regular Game mode on the Sony? Thank you and keep up the good work.
The peak brightness won't be affected by dynamic contrast, unless it makes ABL kick in and lowers the peak brightness. The B7A is a little brighter than the A1E. After LG OLED fimware update 4.70.07, both the B7A and A1E have equally accurate EOTFs in game mode (B7A, A1E) when the HDR infoframe specifies that the maximum brightness is 1000 cd/m², which most HDR content will. However when the HDR infoframe specifies 10,000 cd/m², the EOTF of the A1E remains unchanged while the B7A's EOTF dims considerably, which is not good. Luckily setting 'Dynamic Contrast' to 'High' mostly fixes this dimming, although it's still not as good as the Sony. This dim 10,000 cd/m² EOTF isn't a large concern as most HDR content is mastered for 1000 cd/m², so the much cheaper price of the B7A still makes it a better buy than the A1E.
I have noticed that when my B7 receives a Dolby Vision signal the “OLED Light” setting behaves differently then when receiving an HDR or SDR signal, specifically when set to “Cinema”. Basically, adjusting the “OLED Light” setting doesn’t appear to affect luminosity the same way it does with HDR or SDR. Using “Cinema Home” the “OLED Light” setting works as usual, but I would prefer to use “Cinema”. Thanks!
Hi and thanks for contacting us. You are right, Dolby Vision HDR does not behave the same as HDR10 HDR. When in Dolby Vision HDR, 'OLED Light' at 50 is the same as you would have with 'OLED Light' at 100 in HDR10. Raising it more than 50 will change the PQ curve (change to the gamma) to make detail in shadow more visible. This can especially useful for movies where you are losing details in dark scenes (dark crush).
Why are the colors washed out when using PC input in HDR Game mode on the Xbox One X? I wanted to hopefully use PC input for the low lag and then select standard HDR mode to get around the dim HDR game mode but using PC input ruins the color. Any way to fix the color issue? Is it the TV or the Xbox that is causing the issue? PC input's color is normal on everything but HDR game content.
There's no way to fix it, it's a known bug with PC mode HDR on the OLEDs. It appears it's not detecting the HDR metadata properly and is showing the Rec 2020 colors as standard Rec 709 colors, and a wide color gamut can't be forced because the 'Color Gamut' setting is greyed out in PC mode. We recommend using the normal HDR Game mode, but turning up 'Dynamic Contrast' if you find it too dim; our measurements ('Dynamic Contrast' 'High' vs 'Off') show that 'Dynamic Contrast' can make a big difference to the TV's average brightness by raising its EOTF ('gamma').
I just purchased the LG B7. I have a 2013 Pioneer SC-75 AVR, which has 4K HDMI bypass and upscaling. I have learned that it is usually better to allow the TV to do any upscaling. However, the HDMI and 4K standards have evolved since the Pioneer was designed. Do you think it is OK to run all of my input sources (including a Samsung UBD-M9500 ultra-Blu-Ray player) through the AVR, or should I bypass the AVR for 4K source material?
In regards to that decision, can one HDMI input on the TV be calibrated reasonably for all input sources? I have Dish Network Hopper 3, Amazon Fire, and the Samsung ultra-blu-ray. No games right now. If I have to use separate inputs then what are the audio trade-offs?
Finally, how do you know if a "TV calibrator" knows their stuff? I'm already over my head :-)
Thank you for your insights!
Feel free to use the AVR's bypass feature and use the TV for upscaling. Either should device be good at it, but since we do not test AVRs, the TV is at least a known quantity for you. Calibration generally applies to all content, with only the backlight setting (OLED light in this case) having to be adjusted depending on the brightness of your viewing environment. There aren't many trade-offs for using separate inputs of the TVs if your AVR supports ARC, since you can simply send the audio output of your devices to your AVR through your TV.
Evaluating a calibrator's skill is pretty difficult if you do not have related experience, but since the job is fairly straight forward, it shouldn't be a big risk. Generally, if they are well-read and can explain the concepts well to you, and if they use the right tools for the job (a calibrated colorimeter, popular models are the Klein K10-A and Colorimetry Research CR-100), you should be fine. If you want to be certain, you can contact some of the "traveling" calibrators that have some renown on places like avsforms.com.
I only have a PS4 not a PS4 PRO, is that why I do not see an option for 'HDR Gaming mode'? I only see "Game" or "HDR Effect". I've activated HDR Ultra HD Deep Color.
The normal picture modes switch to HDR picture modes when HDR content is played. If the TV is in 'Game' mode when you start up an HDR game, it'll switch to 'HDR Game' mode automatically. There are more and more games that run in HDR on the original PS4. 'HDR Effect' is a fake HDR mode that attempts to convert SDR content into HDR; we don't recommend it because it makes the content different from what the creator intended.
What is the actual difference in terms of input lag for gaming between Game mode and ISF/Technicolor modes (with all user-configurable processing disabled)? On my previous HDTV (Panasonic ST50), there was no difference in this regard. Is that not the case here?
Unfortunately, the difference between the two is pretty significant. The input lag outside of game mode is about three times higher than with that picture mode enabled. You can match the game mode input lag on any of the picture modes by switching the input icon to "PC", but we've found the PC mode to behave a bit strangely with an HDR input, so it is best avoided with that type of usage.
Do you think they will put out a patch to fix the dim HDR Game mode? Or now that it's 2018 do they stop firmware patching the previous years models?
It's doubtful there will be a patch, because it's an intentional part of how LG handles HDR content; but it is possible because LG does keep patching older models, we've received patches for our B6 during summer 2017. About HDR Game being too dim, our testing has shown that how dim games are in HDR (aka how well they follow the PQ curve) is dependent on the HDR infoframe that the game sends to the TV, so some games may look fine while others will be too dim. If you find a game too dim we recommend turning up the 'Dynamic Contrast' setting, it does a good job of brightening the picture up to a certain point.
On the 20pt W/B adjustment 100IRE has a luminance adjustment. What does this adjustment do and how is this luminance measured, nit, lumens, candela..?
Do you have measurement equipment (a colorimeter or spectroradiometer)? The luminance adjustment for each point adjusts the brightness to allow you to track closer to the gamma target. It has similar behaviour to adjusting together the red/green/blue for each point. Generally this should be used sparingly as it can introduce posterization. It doesn't correspond to a fixed brightness adjustment (or unit). For example, these measurements were performed on our UJ7700 on the 50 IRE point:
For best results, use the other settings (OLED Light, Brightness, Contrast, Gamma, etc) to obtain a calibration as close to your target as possible before adjusting the 2 point or 20 point white balance.
In game mode HDR you can't set dynamic contrast, it's grayed out under advanced controls when the input is set to PC (label and icon).
Setting the icon to 'PC' overrides a lot of the settings, including the ability to add any post processing like dynamic contrast. It is not necessary to set the icon when in 'Game' mode, you should leave it as 'Game Console'. This will allow you to get the best input lag while still having access to most of the features you want, including dynamic contrast.