These are the settings we used to calibrate the 55 inch Toshiba Fire TV (EL4KAMZ5517) and we expect them to be valid for the 43" version (43LF621U19) and the 50" version (TF-50A810U19). These are good for most content, from watching movies and TV shows to gaming. For the best gaming performance some adjustments are needed, and they are listed in the 'Gaming settings' section. You can also see our recommended HDR adjustments below.
The first thing we did was to select the 'Custom' picture mode since this is the picture mode that gives you the most control over the TV settings.
When selecting the 'Custom' picture mode, the TV will display a list of other settings that are only available when selecting the 'Custom' picture mode. We set 'Contrast' at 100, and let 'Brightness' to 0. We set the 'Backlight' to 27 for calibration in a dark room, but you can see our 'Luminance Settings' section below for recommendations for different environmental brightnessess.
We left 'Color' to the default value of 5, and 'Tint' to the default value of 0 for the most accurate image. The default 'Sharpness' value of 0 does add sharpening, so for high quality content you should decrease it to -25.
In the 'Advanced Settings' we disable all of the image processing such as 'Dynamic Contrast', 'MPEG Noise Reduction' and 'Dynamic Noise Reduction' to create the image closest to what the content creator intended. We also disable 'Edge Enhancer' for the most accurate image.
The 'Motion Processing' is the feature that controls the motion interpolation (also named soap opera effect) and was set to 'Bypass' (turned off) for the review process. You can add soap opera effect to a different level depending if you want it to be stronger or less. Note that the stronger you set it, the more motion interpolation artifacts are going to be introduced. You can read more on the subject here, on the review page.
Finally, we set the 'HDMI Input Mode' to 'Mode 2 (2.0)' since it is on 'Mode 2 (2.0)' that the TV will let the HDMI ports use the full HDMI bandwidth. Unless you are using some older AV equipment that doesn't support the latest HDMI 2.0 standard, you should set the TV to use 'Mode 2 (2.0)'.
We selected the 'Warm' color temperature as it is closest to our calibration goal of 6500K. If you find the image too warm or yellowish then you should use a cooler value. The 'Red Intensity', 'Green Intensity' and 'Blue Intensity' are for a calibration with advanced equipment, which we will cover later.
We adjusted the 'Backlight' to 27 for our dark room calibration to reach our target calibration luminance of 100 cd/m2. If that is too bright you can adjust lower depending on your needs.
For a room with average lighting, we adjusted 'Backlight' to 55 to reach a luminance of 200 cd/m². This setting should be good for any room with an average light situation, like an office. You can always adjust it to better suit your specific room.
For our bright room setting, we adjusted the 'Backlight' to 100 (maximum) to get the maximum luminance available. This setting should be good for any well-lit rooms with direct sunlight or light from a very bright lamp.
When using a game console or PC, it is best to use the 'PC' picture mode. This will decrease the input lag as shown here. Ensure that the 'Motion Processing' setting is disabled, and otherwise follow our recommended settings shown above.
The 'Natural' picture mode is the most accurate for HDR, and by default has our recommended settings.
If you find HDR content too dim you can set the Low Luminance Gamma setting to -5, which will brighten most scenes. If you still find HDR too dim you can also enable the HDR Tone Mapping setting, but this may affect the picture quality differently in different scenes. For our measurements of these settings see the Color Gamut section of the review.
Unfortunately, this TV has some very basic picture setting, and the only adjustments you can make are in the Red, Green and Blue. Here are the values that gave us the best picture.